Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Gin and General: Tracing the Armed Forces' Gin connect !

'Spiritz' focus issue on Gin
 "Gin and General" is more than just a headline. It symbolises the beverage's  integration within  the Forces culture ever since it originated as "Genever" in  a quaint town of Netherlands in the 16th century. This was the time when the British and Dutch were fighting the same battles in the Dutch/Spanish war and Genever drinking was a popular practice amongst soldiers before the battle. Officers designated this as ‘Dutch Courage’- a phrase that is popular even today. The British Navy transported Genever (renamed Gin by them) in copious amounts back home, as also to the British colonies across the world. No Officers Mess of a Commonwealth nation has been without Gin ever since.

Recently when. Bishan Kumar, Group Editor Blue Ink Media, called me up with a proposal to do the subject story for  Spiritz Magazine's focus issue on Gin, my immediate response was of exuberance.  Not because Gin is one of my favourite afternoon drinks, but due to the prospect of interviewing one of my awe inspiring former bosses. And the obvious name that came to my mind was  Gen Ajay Chandele – one of the most  stylish and articulate Generals with whom I was privileged to be a brother in arms- albeit a much younger one.

Lt Gen Ajay Chandele, PVSM,AVSM (Retd) at his home bar ready to host guests.
I touched base with the General and soon enough we were  at the Noida Golf course to converse on a subject none of us could have imagined as coming up for discussion a few years back.  Inquisitiveness had the better of me as I started pronto, asking him about his maiden experience with Gin in the Army. “As a cadet at the Indian Military Academy, my father was posted on the instructional staff (of the Academy). My mother would occasionally  invite some of my company course mates to lunch on Sundays and we got an opportunity to sneak a swig with them, courtesy my younger brother who was always playing the perfect host” says the General with an impish gleam in his eyes.  “The association with Gin thereafter has been forever”, he adds. But isn’t Gin considered an afternoon drink in the Army? There is a strong logic behind it- he explained. Afternoon games are an essential part of army cantonment routine, so heavy drinking before lunch is usually avoided. However, a pre- lunch Gin and tonic helps build appetite and is the preferred drink during day time.

Gen Chandele in action at Golf Course

By this time our glass of Gin that the General ordered earlier arrives. The accompaniments of  lime cordial and pearl onions give it away as a Gimlet but  behind the glasses I see soda and Angostura bitters that indicate it is the classical Army favourite.  I ask whether the Army way continued to be his preferred way of having Gin.”My favourite way,” the General reveals, “is to have it with just a little tonic, a slice of lime, dash of Angostura  and crushed ice. The bartender at the Secunderabad Club used to make another of my favourite cocktails– with  lime juice , a sprig of fresh mint and bitters in a highball glass with lot of ice – just the perfect drink after a vigorous game of squash. Nowadays, the General’s favourite watering hole is  the ‘Bunker’ bar at the Army Golf Course, Dhaula Kuan where he enjoys either beer or Gin and tonic with his coursemates after a round of golf. 

His favourite gin brands are  Beefeater and Bombay Sapphire. But in Defence institutions, it is largely the  Blue Riband that rules, due to its easy availability in CSD .

Having been a top brass of the Indian Army, the General has been hosted on several occasions by other armies across the world and has played host to visiting dignitaries umpteen times. I ask him about any differences in Gin consumption he might have noticed as compared to us. His reply is laced with interesting bits of gin information: “Gin is England’s national spirit and is popular in the clubs of across the erstwhile British colonial countries. It is very popular in the Philippines, which consumes almost half the Gin produced in the world. On the continent, Spain is a Gin and tonic nation. In the US, it is the ingredient of a variety of cocktails. But in Russia, and the Eastern Bloc countries, it can’t compete with vodka.” 

But hasn’t vodka overwhelmed Gin in the past few years? Even the James Bond specifies a vodka Martini in an emphatic indicator of changing tends. The General does not agree though - “ Gin is the preferred base for most cocktail recipes in Army messes. Our bartenders are more comfortable with Gin and can whip up many delightful concoctions.”

It is Mrs Chandele’s phone call and it is no secret that even Generals have to take a halt to pick up the
phone when the wife calls. I use the opportunity to feast my eyes on the lush greenery around along with munching the pristine white pearl onion with a few swigs of the Gin. We resume shortly with my next question: Are army ladies also favourably disposed towards Gin? Answering in the affirmative. “Gin and tonic is by far the most popular with army  ladies, but with the cocktail culture picking up, some of the younger ones prefer vodka and the non initiated stick to Bacardi Breezers,” says the General.

It’s time for the General to leave for a board meeting and knowing well that he is now a man wearing different hats, I sneak in a concluding question: How does he perceive the 'Gin factor' as having changed in his multi-role  civilian avatar of  Managing Editor of a niche magazine, a decision maker in the Indian Golf Union and a Board member of a technology giant? 
“My golfing colleagues prefer Gin over other spirits, unless beer is  part of the bet. The board room types like to stick to their chota  Gin during day , not much work can be done after beer,” he  shares the gin habits of the people around him. 

Clicking my heels with arms stretched in attention ( the Forces way of saluting while in civvies) I thank the General with the hope of hosting him to a Negroni with Bombay Sapphire soon enough!

Friday, September 12, 2014

"TORRES, Tapas and Toro": What Winemakers Want


 Asador is the Spanish word for Barbeque. This June, as I sat at one of those in the Spanish wine country of La Rioja savouring the Patatas Riojana and Vine Grilled Lamb Rack, the wine to accompany was extra special. Not only because it was one of the finest from the Torres stable, but also due to the winemaker himself giving us company at lunch! As I took the first sip of  Altos Ibéricos  Crianza 2011, with Julio Carreter de Granda, the Manager and Winemaker at Torres winery in La Rioja,  the instant thought that came to my mind was- how would Julio rate his own wine outside the hallowed precincts of his winery? How did he think his wine had moved- in the right or the wrong direction? 
At Asador Jose Mari with Julio, Emma Llorens (Brand Ambassador Torres) and Shalini Kumar (Editor Spiritz Magazine)

Julio  pouring his wine for tasting at the Torres winery at La Rioja
Patatas Riojana

Vine Grilled Lamb Rack

 Having tasted the same wine just an hour ago with Julio, the question became all the more relevant, and I popped it out to him without delay. The answers came pronto giving an instant peep into the winemaker’s mind. However, my inquisitiveness had some more miles to it, and on the way back to Barcelona, I decided to pose the same question to another winemaker Montserrat Catasús Asenjo whom I was scheduled to meet the following day at the Torres winery at Pacs del Penedès. What followed was a revelation of sorts but on the much anticipated lines of wine handling, transportation and the final value derived by the end consumer. Interestingly it made me conclude that a winemaker is like a film star who sees his/her own face on the hoardings only to imagine the original photoshoot – to be  either delighted or disappointed on account of many variables that come into play from studio to the billboard .

The candid conversation with Julio and Montse  as follows, confirmed the same. Over to Julio and Montse for  the remaining post..

Montse passionately explaining the making of her wines at Torres winery in Pacs del Penedes


Name: Julio Carreter de Granda
Job Title: Manager and Wine Maker
Company: Soto de Torres


Julio amid his vineyards in La Rioja with the Cantabrian mountain ranges in the backdrop

My Wine:

Altos Ibéricos : Deep cherry colour. Intense nose with traces of plum and black fruit compote accompanied by dark-roasted spice notes from ageing in barrel. Sweet on the attack with mild tannins. The impression of fruit along with soft tannins make it a great match for all kinds of tapas. This sets it apart from the classic local wines that are more strongly defined by oak.

My best experiences with my  wines elsewhere

When it has been served with the right food and in right condition. Altos Ibéricos has been created specifically with the latest trends in avant-garde cuisine in mind.  The soft tannins and exquisite fruit combine perfectly with all types of tapas prepared with fresh ingredients, including red meat, oily fish and cheese. It is absolutely exquisite with cured meats. Hence it is necessary that apart from the right condition it is served at the right temperature of 14-16°C.

And my worst experiences

When the wine is served without any time in bottle or when the temperature is unduly high (in any case it should not go upwards of 18 °C). Some time in bottle is very important. All components of the wine will be more integrated and there will be more harmony and soft tannins. If the temperature is very high, the wine will like more alcoholic and less fresh.

Given an opportunity, what would I change between the wine leaving the winery and being served to the consumer.

I would like to have lesser agents or intermediaries between the winery and the consumer. Direct contact with the consumer is necessary for a personal touch as  also for reducing the extent of handling and storing of wine at different points. Given a chance, I would also want to make it more affordable to the consumer by trimming undesirable costs.


Name: Montserrat Catasús Asenjo (Montse)
Job Title:  Winemaker
Company: Miguel Torres SA

Montse alongside the fermentation vats at Torres' Pacs del Penedès winery


My Wines:

Gran Sangre De Toro, Gran Coronas and  Atrium.

I work in a team comprising of Joan Calvet (Team Leader) and Montse Rossell and Enric Ginesta (fellow oenologists).
 
Gran Sangre de Toro

High colored wine of intense violet rim and steely tones with floral aromas of violets, spice and subtle hints of strawberry. Nice entry on the palate with good structure and a fresh finish. 

The combination of Syrah and Garnacha with a touch of Cariñena is typical of the new world’s wines (Australia) and southern France (Côtes du Rhone). In its elaboration, we are looking for the new and old wine world complexity. On the one hand, we have the fruitiness, and on the other, the structure and fat texture in the mouth.


Atrium Merlot

Medium bodied with rounded tannins and red fruit flavors.




The key to this wine is the maceration and fermentation at 20°C. This allows us to get round tannins and preserve the fruitiness of Merlot. Finally, the personality of the wine is rounded with the light touch of the barrel.


Gran Coronas

Great complex aromas with spicy notes, black pepper and cloves with a background of forest fruits and dried leaf. Its passage through the mouth is ripe and candied, with structured tannins and good concentration. It could be defined as a silky elegance wine. 

Made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo varieties, it can compete with both, the Bordeaux  and the big Spanish wines. The wine has two emblematic varieties of each of these countries that work together with unparalleled synergy.

My best experiences with my wines elsewhere

My best experience is when I taste Atrium at 15°C, Gran Coronas and Gran Sangre de Toro at 17°C, with a good glass and with a nice food pairing. For example; Atrium with Cod, prunes and pine nuts. Gran Coronas could be paired with Magret de Canard and finally, Gran Sangre de Toro goes very well with Confit de Canard.

And my worst experiences

When I taste the wine either too cold, at less than 12-13°C or too hot, maybe at more than 19-20°C. It’s also a bad experience to taste it with a wrong food pairing or with a non-appropriate glass.


Given an opportunity, what would I change between the wine leaving the winery and being served to the consumer.

I think the perfect conservation of the wine is really important. Some wines are badly conserved, mostly during the transport or during the storage in the different shops or restaurants; with too much direct light, high temperature, vibrations, bad humidity, etc. All these things are very important, because if we don’t take proper care, the wine could change immensely.

This artistic piece inside Asador Jose Mari depicts buddy bonhomie!

Torres wines are imported in India by Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd
Current Delhi retail prices of wines listed in this post are:
Altos Ibéricos Rs. 2150.00, Gran Sangre de Toro Rs. 2000.00, Atrium Merlot Rs. 2000.00, Gran Coronas Rs. 2400.00

This story has been published in the Sept 2014 edition of Spiritz Magazine.