For the sake of Sake

   Cool Blue Sake bottles chilling

To explain the homograph first! Sake (pronounced Saa-kay) is an ancient Japanese wine made from rice that has a rich history dating back more than 2000 years. Similar in production process as Wine made from grapes- there are two major differences- first it is a grain based product and second, the alcohol level in most Sakes is 15% or higher by volume, which is higher than most wines (except the fortified varieties).



Sake Producers with their Wines
Pic Courtesy: Spiritz

I had this wonderful opporrtunity to understand Sake in depth courtesy Spiritz magazine that facilitated  the arrival of an organization rather valorously  called ‘Sake Samurai’ - which is a group of  renowned Sake producers intensely involved in promoting Sake worldwide. The event was held at Varq restaurant, Taj Mahal hotel New Delhi and worked as a crash course in this wonderful beverage that is growing exponentially in popularity akin to Sushi from the same land.

Japanese Ambassador (R) with Mr Keisuke Irie
Pic Courtesy: Spiritz

On arrival at the venue, it was pleasing to find courteous Japanese producers receiving the guests warmly, notwithstanding the language barrier as most of them could speak basic English, and for the rest, the interpreter was at hand. The evening started with a keynote address by  H.E. Mr Takeshi Yagi, Ambassador of Japan to India followed by a presentation by Mr. Keisuke Irie, Secretariat Member of Sake Samurai. Thereafter, it was tastings galore with each producer personally presenting his/her wines.

Sake in a Nutshell

Unmilled and 40%  milled Rice Samples

Sake wines are produced using  special rice varieties that are called Shuzo Kotikimai. Milling and polishing rice is an important process of Sake production and classification of various types of Sake depend on the extent of polishing the grain. These rice grains are bigger and stronger so as to withstand high degree of polishing without breaking. The process of polishing, strips the grains of bran and proteins and emphasizes on the availability of starch which is concentrated in the centre of the grain. There are 1600 breweries in Japan that produce around 50,000 variants of Sake. 75 % of the total production is non-premium Sake called Futsu-shu (equivalent of Table wine) while the remaining 25 % is the premium variety called Tokutei meiso-shu classified further depending on the nature of ingredients and milling rate of rice as follows:

Junmai (Unmilled) - Rice + Koji Rice (Fermented and culture inoculated rice) + water

Junmai Daiginjo (Upto 50% milled) – Rice + Koji Rice + water

Junmai Ginjo (Upto 60% milled)- Rice + Koji Rice + water

Daiginjo- A Junmai Daiginjo + Brewing Alcohol.

Ginjo- A Junmai Ginjo + Brewing Alcohol.

Honjozo (Upto 70 % milled)- Rice + Koji Rice + Brewing Alcohol

Apart from the above, unpasteurised Sake is called  Nama-Zake and aged Sake- Koshu.There is also a Sparkling Sake that is gaining popularity.

Sensory Experience

Rather than describing individual wines tasted, I suppose it would be better to summarise the

My side  of the table

tasting experience as a range of characteristics,  since I assume that most of the readers, like me may not have tasted many Sake wines earlier. Thus goes the experience:

Colour: Mostly pristine with pale straw and gold reflections. In some cases, there was a greenish tint too, but not as pronounced as in grape originated wine.

Aromas: White flowers, gooseberries, grass, dug up earth, confectionery, pastry, old grains, mushrooms.

Palate: Light to full body, coconut water, white fruits, herbaceous, medium to long finish.

Food accompaniment

Sampling Sake with one of the Producers

 Though I would prefer sticking to Sake as an aperitif for the time being, things may change once I experiment more of it with food. At this event, starters like Chicken Reshmi Tikka and Fish with tartar sauce were served.Though it was not a pairing per se, it was also not out of sync. I feel  these wines could be paired with a variety of food options in the Indian context. Amongst other cuisine, I think most Sakes should pair well with Oriental food that is rich in aromatic flavours and texture. Typical Entrée courses that have lots of greens are also likely to work well.



Authentic Cups for Sake sipping
Pic Courtesy: Spiritz

The tasting concluded with us being handed over a beautiful souvenir in the form of a cute little ceramic Sake tasting cup (two of which you can see in the pic alongside) . We bade farewell to the Sake gathering with a lingering taste in the mouth and a strong urge to buy a bottle enroute to put the cups to good use - pronto!

My French Wine Odyssey: CIVC- Champagne's Guardian Angel

 Fame has its flipsides too! First- a continuous effort required to stay on top and second- increasingly high number of competitors surreptitiously trying to encash on your brand. So what does one do to counter these threats? Simple! Be your original self and continuously innovate! This is precisely what the best known wine in the world does, and the regulatory body known as Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) rather proactively ensures so!

CIVC was initially formed in 1935 by the name ‘Chalons Committee’ (Chalons is a small city that is the capital of Champagne-Ardenne district) with an aim to harmonise dealings between  vine growers and the négociants (merchants) in the Champagne region. Over the years, the organisational structure of this committee saw changes and it evolved in the present form in 1941. The principal activities of CIVC relate to technical and commercial support to the Champagne producers as also to zealously defend the Champagne brand against wrongful, illegal or unauthorised use in many countries. It goes without saying that thus far it has done an enviable job of it !

Coming to my visit to Champagne, it was courtesy CIVC that I landed as a guest in the region, thanks to my enthusiasm (and most certainly performance too) in the Intermediate level certification of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), London. These scholarships are awarded by CIVC to offer select wine professionals across the world, a detailed look into the enchanting world of the famed bubbly!

(Click on the photos to enlarge)

So when we arrived at the lively yet business like street in Epernay, the Maison de la Champagne greeted us with its chic demeanour silently containing the bubbly vivacity as would a Champagne bottle- and the Ambassador of Champagne to India, Mr Rajiv Singhal (in the photo alongside) led our delegation from the front. We were escorted to a vast and naturally illuminated hall replete with tables that had all the requisites of wine tasting. But before the   tasting expedition,  it was the crisp and informative presentation by Monsieur Philippe Wibrotte, Responsable des Relations Publique at CIVC, that opened our eyes  about how over the years, Champagne has withstood the vagaries of brand infringements, tough production years, and increasing market competition- all the while managing to stand tall and inimitable! The ubiquitous role of CIVC in the complete Champagne lifecycle- from Research and Development to Growing, Bottling, Shipping, Marketing, Retailing and Customer Contact, was also highlighted .

Following this was a guided wine tasting  conducted  by CIVC's Oenologue Chargée de Communication, Madame Violaine de Caffarelli. The focus of the tasting was    to highlight various aspects of terroir (soil type and micro climate), peculiarities of aperitif and gourmet wines, as also different winemaking philosophies of  producers. The sequence of tasting was intelligently chosen so as to bring out the typicalities of grapes that go into the making of Champagne. The experience was poetically fluid and delightful  as under :

Paul Goerg, Blanc de Blancs

Paul Goerg is a cooperative located in Vertus (one of the highest Premier Cru villages of Champagne) and is named after a Mayor of the town in late 19th century, who did yeoman service to the vineyards of the region. Situated in Cotes des Blancs region famous for its Chardonnay grapes, 85 % of vineyards here are Premier Cru and the wines are produced in different styles owing to the diverse terroirs within the region.

Tasting Notes.

A classic refreshing Chardonnay with wonderful complexity. The wine was limpid and pale gold in colour, with  aromas of dried fruits and bread. The continuous bead of plentiful  bubbles that formed an intense ring on top, made for a mesmerizing sight . The palate was creamy  with complex flavours of prunes, figs, honey and nuts. I could not help but nod in affirmation when Madame Caffarelli pronounced it a good aperitif wine.

 Mailly Grand Cru, Blanc de Noirs 

 What started as a collective bounceback effort by growers after the markets crash in 1929, went on to become one of the best known cooperatives located entirely in a Grand Cru region in the heart of Montagne de Reims. The Mailly estate is famed for its Pinot Noir dominant wines though Chardonnay is also cultivated in around 25% of its 70 hectares vineyards and used in some of its wines. We tasted this 100% Pinot Noir and the experience was nothing short of delightful! 

Tasting Notes

An intense antique gold colour with a subtle rouge tint. Earthy and nutty nose with aromas of ripe berries, and some floral notes. On the palate, it was steely yet soothing,followed by a long finish. This wine was highlighted as a food wine and here too, we were in agreement owing to its lingering presence in the mouth.

Ruinart Brut, 50% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

The oldest Champagne house (established in 1729) that distributes its wines through very few outlets,is amongst the connoisseurs’ favourite the world over. The house is presently owned by the luxury goods conglomerate  Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey (LVMH). True to its ancient history, the Ruinart bottle is modelled on the original 18th century champagne bottle.

Tasting Notes :

A brilliant straw yellow colour with gold reflections. A fruity and nutty nose complemented with yeasty aromas. The palate was full bodied with refreshing acidity, good structure and flavours of red apples and ripe peaches. An excellent gourmet wine but also good as aperitif. 

 A Lunch Fit for Kings

 

After the surreal tasting, we were escorted  through the picture perfect streets of Epernay for a gourmet lunch  hosted by CIVC at La Grillade Gourmande- a signature fine dining space owned by celebrity chef Christophe Bernard. Apart from the outstanding food, the wine list was humungous- content wise, as well as in its physical form. With real wine labels pasted on a thick cardboard album, it required well worked out arms to hold but then- no spectacles even if one is known to strain on a size 14 font! The Champagnes we selected were a Philipponat- a familiar Sparkler at Michelin starred restaurants & an exclusive Alfred Gratien- that falls into the Boutique genre. The chef personally approved our choice and his passion in describing the wine and food made his intimate involvement in the restaurant nothing but obvious. The pure indulgence made us miss out on scribbling down the tasting notes, but we compensated by clicking photos of the gourmet food- not to forget a parting snap with chef Christophe Bernard himself!

We couldn’t have had it better CIVC ! Merci! Au Revoir très bientôt!

P.S. Will upload more pictures on this post soon! So checkout the blog again after a couple of days!