Saturday, December 29, 2012

10 Tips on Sensible Drinking in the Celebratory Season




In the fading moments of 2011, I had posted an article on my website on the subject of sensible drinking during the festive season- particularly on New Year Eve. The article was well received and many friends gave me thumbs up for it.  This time around, due to restructuring of my website and the advent of this blog , I am reinventing, refining and reproducing the same article with some added tips that are the result of personal experimentations. It would be thrilling for me if I am instrumental in affecting even one lesser hangover this New Year! So here goes:-

  
Before the Limousine moment

1.  Best Foot Forward

Start the D day, with a healthy breakfast of fruits, cereals and nuts- an oft repeated advice- so what’s exceptional about it?  Well, for starters, these would build up your reserves of water and vitamins that are bound to get depleted by the ensuing indulgences. The roughage provided too, would ensure that your ‘throne’ séjour is comfortable the morning after. Top nutritionists advice that your day’s food intake should be balanced by the counterweights of  the opposite variety.  Hence having a healthy daytime intake would keep you well poised (and relatively guilt free) for letting your hair down in the evening.

2. Butter..oops..Oil’em Up

Old timers would bet on the effectiveness of consuming a generous dollop of butter before leaving on an alcohol bingeing spree- and rightly so- because the greasy lining created by butter reduces alcohol absorption in the stomach, thus limiting its harmful effects. I would advice the butter to be substituted by a 60 ml shot of Extra Virgin olive oil, which would serve the same purpose with significantly lesser calories. Also, Olive Oil is rich in Vitamins E, K and beneficial fatty acids thus providing another line of defence for your body.


3. Bulk it!

Psyllium husk or Isabgol as known in Hindi is a wonderful natural produce that is obtained by milling the Psyllium seeds. These flakes can absorb fluids more than 10 times their weight, are insoluble and are not digestible by the body. Due to this absorption power, they have a tendency to bulk up and make one feel fuller in the stomach. Having 2 tablespoonfuls of Isabgol with water would ensure that you do not dart off to that fried snacks counter too early in the evening as also limit the alcohol getting through to your stomach lining - same way the taxman limits the money reaching your pocket!


After traversing the Red Carpet


4. Do not drink on an empty stomach. When you arrive at the party venue, grab an initial glass of water (warm water if you don’t fancy a cool glass owing to the chilly weather)  and make this first drink last for at least 10 minutes, nibbling on starters if already being served. This will also give you time to check-out what drinks are available at the bar & make a considered decision about your tipple for the evening.

5. Once you hold your preferred drink, change drinks only if you have a history of being able to endure mixed drinks. Remember, there’s no bravado in having mixed drinks since the tolerance for these differs by body constitution, and there is nobody else who would know the suitability better than you. There is no “one size fits all” in drinks & that friend of yours with an enviable capability to digest gallons of concoctions doesn’t necessarily qualify to star in the sequel to Skyfall. So forget about the halo effect and if at all, try different drinks with the same alcohol base- i.e. if having Vodka, stick to Vodka based drinks only.

6. Be aware of your alcohol limit going by past experience  both with straight-up drinks and cocktails. Cocktails generally contain some sweet element that enhances the potency  of the alcohol. Also, owing to the freezing temperatures during this part of the year, the tendency to gulp down drinks fast in higher. To obviate the guzzling spree, locate a warm place like a heating arrangement or a cosy setup and  get intimate (conversation wise) with friends that interest you. The urge to visit the bar counter will be much lesser. 

7. Try spacing consecutive drinks with a few gulps of pure aqua. If this sounds too clichéd, dilute your straight up drink with a little water or if having cocktails ask the bartender to dilute it with the appropriate mixer. 

8. Politely refuse to the waiter, an offer for replenishing your drink if your glass already contains 1/3rd  or more of its capacity. You will be surprised as to how much control you’ve had on your intake by following this simple principle.

9. Remember, contentment is a state of mind and the law of diminishing returns is equally applicable when it comes to consumption of alcohol. Studies have shown that after consuming upto 4-5 large drinks, further consumption becomes more of a mechanical pursuit rather than real pleasure. If you are conscious of your intake, it is unlikely that you will exceed this quantity- but if the stage does arrive- it’s time to grab the dinner plate or head for the dance floor.

 10. Lastly- remember that it’s New Year’s Eve and the aim is to share the excitement and celebration with your nears and dears to make it a fond memory. The idea is not to get ****ed drunk as to forget the next day  how wonderful the previous evening had been, and worse, get a crippling hangover on the very first day of the promising year ahead!

P.S. One last word! Do surprise the cop at the crossing by being driven back home by a non-drinker!

Wishing you a Happy, Safe and Successful New Year!


Sunday, December 16, 2012

My French Wine Odyssey: Champagne Taittinger





La Marquetterie! The enchanting  18th century Taittinger Estate,   that   must feature on the itinerary of  any visitor to this Champagne house if the visit is to be considered complete!  These were the thoughts that crossed my mind while I partook of the 5 course gourmet  dinner accompanied with their finest Champagnes at the manor. And to think that I had already started summarizing my visit to Taittinger after admiring their picture perfect cellars earlier in the day!


La Marquetterie is the French word for ‘The Chequerboard’ and the estate is named so due to the alternately planted plots with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. During autumn when the leaves of these different grapevines turn into hues of red  and yellow, the whole estate looks like  God’s own chess board - albeit in colour. The magnificent Chateau de la Marquetterie also has a depth of historical significance being  originally a  Military Headquarters during the first world war where many a battle was planned. It was during those times that Pierre Taittinger, a Cavalry man with the French Army fascinated about returning back some day and acquiring the estate. Return he did- and voila! Seeds were sown for one of the well known Champagne houses of  of the day. Despite a turbulent past where the control of the Champagne house slipped from the hands of the Taittinger family, it is once again back  with the family with Emmanuel Taittinger at the helm and his children Clovis and Vitalie playing active roles in keeping up with the times.


So much for history. Coming to  serious Champagne business, our visit to Taittinger kicked off with a visit to their famous cellars at the Saint Nicaise Abbey- one of the erstwhile abodes of Benedictine monks that was once a chalk quarry . The Benedictine monks enlarged these 4th century chalk quarries to create  an  optimum environment  for storing Champagne with just the right levels of humidity and temperature. Taittinger acquired these cellars in 1931, and since then, millions of their bottles age in this wine friendly environment. In one of these caves, we came across an overwhelming 1,00,000 bottles of their prestige cuvée Comtes de Champagne resting before their tryst with the outside world!

Following the visit to cellars, we were received at La Marquetterie by Madame Dominique Garreta, Directrice Communication at Taittinger and  proceeded immediately to the vineyards adjoining the manor. While we soaked in the breathtaking landscape with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on  either sides ready for harvest, the first Champagne of the rendezvous- Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2002 was offered for tasting. The experience was as under:



Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, 2002

 Taittinger calls this as its ‘Holy Grail’ due to its out and out exclusivity. It is a vintage Champagne  matured for 8 to 10 years in the chalk cellars  and is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes grown in the best Grands Crus of Cotes des Blancs. Only First Press wines are used for this cuvée that impart  it the finesse so rightly associated with it.

Tasting Notes

Pale gold colour with abundant  bubbles forming a persistent mousse. The bouquet is fresh and mineral with citrus and toasty notes. A refreshing palate with flavours of pineapple, melon and toasted  brioche. With smooth long finish, this wine can work as an aperitif and also with rich and creamy food. We sampled it with finger food ranging from puffed pastries, to  assorted skewered meats.



After sampling this exclusive wine, we moved inside Chateau de la Marquetterie for dinner at a round dining table with historical artifacts all around. The Champagnes served with the dinner were:


Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus Brut

A 50:50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine are sourced from vineyards with a 100% rating in the Champagne classification system. Again, only First Press wines are used in this blend and it is aged in the cellars for several  years more than the stipulated minimum regulation (15 months for a Non Vintage Champagne).

Tasting  Notes:

A shimmering pale gold colour with aromas of citrus fruits and white flowers. The palate is refreshing with flavours of  peaches,geen apples and a pleasing minerality. The finish is rich and explosive that lingers for a long time. Good as an aperitif or with seafood. We were served this with the Entrée course of grilled petit vegetables and roasted shrimps.



Taittinger Brut Millésimé 2005

This Brut vintage cuvée is a blend of equal parts of Grand Cru Chardonnay from Cote de Blancs and Grands Crus Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims and top of the Marne valley. Made exclusively from First Press juice, it matures for a long time in the cellars.

Tasting Notes:

Bright golden straw yellow colour with vigorous effervescence. The nose is intensely aromatic with initial flowery notes developing into ripe fruit and dried fruit aromas. The palate is complex and rich with a fruity character that lends it a subtle sweetness. A long and fine finish makes it a good food wine. We appreciated it with the main course of Fish Fillet  stuffed  with scallops,nuts and saffron and Zucchini Ribbons in fresh butter.





The Famous Gate Carneros 2006

This wine is a Pinot Noir from Taittinger’s wine estate Domaine Carneros in Napa Valley, California held jointly with Kobrand Corporation of the USA. Domaine Carneros produces three sparkling wines (note that these cannot be called Champagne) and two still red wines.  

Tasting Notes

Bright and deep cherry colour. Explosively fruity on the nose accompanied  with an earthy aroma. Medium bodied and fruity on the palate with flavours of raspberries, red cherries and a hint of spice. Light tannins  and a medium-long finish make it an easy drinking red wine with a lasting impression We relished it  with the Fromage course of aged cheeses and dry fruits compote.




Taittinger Nocturne Sec

Taittinger highlights this as a Night Time Champagne due to its propensity to accompany the sweeter  things in life, and with perfect  reason-  this Champagne has 17.5 grams per litres of dosage (added sugar in the last stage of Champagne production) that classifies it as Sec (Dry). As compared to Brut, Extra Brut and Brut Nature Champagnes, Sec Champagnes are sweeter but only subtly. The added sugar lends them a fuller and rounder body that makes them good accompaniment with a host of desserts. the compostion of this wine is 40% Chardonnay and 60% of  Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.


Tasting Notes:
Pale bright lemon  colour . A delicate nose of peaches, dried apricots and white flowers. A smooth full bodied  creamy palate with good levels of acidity and a sensation of ripe fruits and  raisins. The finish is long and smooth with layered complexity. A good dessert wine but could also be enjoyed on its own- maybe as a digestif. We sampled it with Pistache Macarons, Strawberry Sorbet and a collection of Red Fruits.


The indulging dinner concluding, we bade farewell to Madame Dominique Garreta and the house of Taittinger with a hope of finding these wines more abundantly at customer friendly prices in India in the near future. As per Taittinger, the present volumes are not significant in India primarily due to the high landed cost of wines, but there is great hope due to the ongoing  dialogue  of trade concessions between India and the European Union. Needless to say that as wine lovers  we would wait impatiently for that to happen!


Pic Courtesy: Shalini Kumar, Editor, Spiritz 



Thursday, October 25, 2012

My French Wine Odyssey: Champagne Cattier



 After a hearty gourmet lunch at  Billecart-Salmon (see previous blog post), we headed towards the Champagne house Cattier, which is located in a beautiful village called Chigny les Roses between Reims & Epernay. As our vehicle took the turn on Rue Dom Perignon, one thing appeared very distinctive to our all Indian contingent - the roads were vacant as if the traffic had been diverted due to VIP movement- but unlike back in India, that was not the case. The density of population and various other factors like orderliness (a debatable issue) were the reason for the all pervading solitude.
The Mechanical Press at Cattier

M. Philippe Bienvenu  (L) & M. Jean Cattier (R)
Reaching the Cattier house, a meticulously maintained grape press of yesteryears greeted us. These presses were used for extracting the juice from grapes until the advent of more advanced pneumatic presses. At the glittering reception area replete with colourful Champagne bottles all around, we were greeted by none other than the owner M. Jean Cattier and the Director Commercial, M. Philippe Bienvenu. They suggested to us, a wine tasting followed by visit to the cellars or the other way round. Knowing well that we desperately needed some exercise after the gourmet indulgence at Billecart-Salmon a short while ago, we opted for the latter and braced ourselves for climbing some really steep steps in the  150 years old Cattier cellars that are 3 floors deep and happen to be one of the deepest in Champagne. Our young guide named Gauthier Bongras who spoke English rather well contrary to his modest admission, escorted us to the place that was designed using three different architectural styles- Renaissance, Romanesque & Gothic. The cellar expedition was  not as difficult  though- going by the sheer beauty of the place. The area where the famous prestige cuvee Armand de Brignac rests before seeing the outer world is full of razzmatazz with the colourful bottles reflecting the carefully placed lights. For a moment you feel you’re in Vegas!
Armand de Brignac Cellars

The visit to cellars concluding, we were escorted  back to the Cattier bureau for dégustation  As we sank into the plush pristine white leather sofas in the dégustation area, Gauthier placed the glasses and opened the first bottle which was a Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru. Our first sip coincided with  M. Cattier and Philippe arriving and we thought it was a good idea to move to the beautiful illuminated Bar  for more animate discussions across the bar counter The degustation progressed as follows:-


Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru

Blanc de Blancs
A lovely lemon-gold colour that can be appreciated from the clear bottle itself. Citrus and green fruits aromas with a hint of flowers.  A super refreshing palate with sensations of green apples, pears and dried fruits that make for a complex character. Overall a refreshing wine that can be an excellent aperitif but I suppose the fruits on the palate would emerge more after three to five years for optimally balancing the high levels of acidity.

Brut Vintage 2003 Premier Cru
A blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir and 25 % Chardonnay, this Vintage Champagne is another good wine as an aperitif as well as an accompaniment with poultry and sea food. A deep golden colour with a generous mousse, the aromas are of citrus and green fruits with  biscuit  and bread nuances. The palate is fruity, light and refreshing and the finish is medium with a touch of spice.

Brut Vintage 2003
Brut Blanc de Noirs
This one turned out to be my favourite wine tasted with Cattier.  Blanc de Noirs means ‘White wine from Black Grapes' and true to its name, this wine is produced from a 70:30 blend of the two black grapes of Champagne i.e. Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier. The wine has a seductive peach-pink colour and pours with a strong but restrained mousse. The nose is complex with aromas of black currants, ripe plums and a distinctive feel of spice. The palate is medium bodied and rich with an immense fruity feel. Well structured wine fit to be paired with a wide variety of meats and other robust textured food.

Brut Blanc de Noirs
Clos du Moulin Brut Premier Cru
This is the prestige cuvee of Cattier and grapes for producing this wine come from an exclusive 2.2 hectares parcel near Chigny les Roses. This cuvee is always made from 3 vintages selected for their quality and ageing capacity. The composition of the wine is  50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The wine is medium gold in colour with an amber tint. The nose is delicate yet firm with fruits and pastry shop aromas. The mouth feel is creamy and vinous with lush fruit. The wine lingers in the mouth for a long time  and hence would qualify as a good food-wine. Overall a delicate, complex and full bodied wine that would do well with seafood and rich creamy textured dishes.

Clos du Moulin

The dégustation culminated with talks of the possibility of Cattier coming to India. Presently, the annual production of the house is around 1 million bottles, of which 60 percent is exported to 70 countries. The main deterrent for exporting to India seems to be  the same old story- stiff trade barriers in India. But things look positive on that front owing to hectic parleys between the European Union and India on effecting mutual concessions.

Breaking News: Just received  a mail from Philippe that Cattier has entered into a contract with a Sri Lanka based company having Indian ownership for exporting their Champagnes to India. So there's more to cheer about the Bubbly space . Let them sparklers illuminate the scene!


Wednesday, October 10, 2012

My French Wine Odyssey: Champagne Billecart-Salmon




The anticipation fringed on impatience as the flight started its descent towards Paris Airport. I had been leaning towards the window ever since we crossed the Alps,  admiring the changing landscape- from snow capped mountains to alternating green and beige swathes of plains and finally the multi hued chequerboard of the French wine country as the ground came closer. Yess! finally my dream of visiting Champagne was about to come true and what better way for it to realise than being  a guest of the Comité Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC)- the apex body of Champagne producers!

At the Airport exit where an impeccably liveried chauffeur with a placard from CIVC was stationed, I met my three co-guests- two distinguished journalists and a jet setting sommelier. We introduced ourselves and quickly boarded the Mercedes SUV that lapped up the entire luggage like a hungry carnivore!  The journey to Reims took around an hour plus and we reached our hotel set amidst a tranquil yet festive street with an evidently vivacious night life. Our Champagne experience was about to begin.
The Billecart-Salmon House

The morning arrived soon and after a hearty French breakfast at our hotel, we set out to our first destination of the day which was the Champagne house  Billecart Salmon situated in the Champagne Grand Cru area of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ  near Epernay . The Champagne House has a history dating back to 1818 when it was founded with the matrimonial alliance of the Billecart and Salmon families. The house has its own vineyards of 50 hectares and sources grapes from a total area spread over 170 hectares with most of of the vineyards within a 20 km radius of Epernay covering the famed areas of Montagne de Reims & Cotes des Blancs.
M. Antoine Roland Billecart hosting the tasting
  We were received and escorted into the house by the graceful lady responsible for communication at B-S, and after the initial pleasantries, she  excused herself only to return a few minutes later with crystal clear eye protection gear that could put  a Roberto Cavalli to shame! The eyewear was  a protective measure against any likelihood of a stray Champagne bottle bursting while we visited the cellars, as these bottles contain a pressure in the range of 5-6 atmospheres and so, have to be handled carefully during the production process. The deliberately conducted visit to the vineyards, vatting rooms and the cellars took us through all stages of Champagne production and our lovely hostess bade us farewell at the tasting area situated amidst the beautifully manicured garden  that had hedges artistically crafted into the B-S logo.
The tasting enclosure was déjà  in the take off mode with glasses and other requisites lined-up. No sooner than we settled down, emerged the charismatic and suave co-owner of the house Antoine Roland Billecart, and the first of the wines for the afternoon too, arrived in tandem. The tasting thereafter progressed as follows:

Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs
Quite obviously a Chardonnay based wine, this Blanc de Blancs is a careful blend of two different years to maintain the House Style that the loyalists would expect. The grapes are sourced from five Grand Cru vineyards of Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger, as a result, the wine is delightedly complex yet delicate.  With floral and citrus aromas, this sparkler is dry, refreshing and  creamy on the palate with a persistent mineral finish so characteristic of a Chardonnay grown in limestone soils.  A perfect accompaniment for seafood and delicately spiced fatty food such as a confit-de-canard (cured duck preserved in fat).I am sure  it would also go well with the Indian preparation from Kerala of Appam with stew- given the creaminess of the ensemble.

Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve
Straw yellow coloured  Champagne with 45% Pinot Meunier, 30 % Chardonnay and 20 % Pinot Noir sourced from three different years- the youngest being from 2008. This elegant wine carries the well known nuances of its constituents and has an excellent structure and complexity with good levels of acidity. The nose is fruity and toasty with a pleasant hint of spice that reaffirms on the palate. The wine pours with an impressive mousse and continues with persistent bubbles. Ideal accompaniment to grilled food and Indian tandoori preparations.



Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve (Extra Brut)  The lower residual sugar variant of the above mentioned Champagne  (less than 6 grams per litre as compared to less than 15 grams per litre for Brut) the youngest wine in this blend is from the year 2007. Pale gold in colour with aromas of dried fruits and flowers, the wine has a firm backbone accompanied by biscuity and fruity palate and good levels  of acidity to retain the freshness. More masculine and hence would go well with robust textured food like game meat and fried poultry.
Antoine educated us about various aspects of winemaking followed in  B-S  that make it a very distinct ‘House Style’ recognised by aficionados the world over. The maison has largely family owned parcels- which is quite unique since  most of the vineyards in Old Word wine producing nations, have seen increased fragmentation of ownership, spawning off smaller individual wineries. Production houses like B-S have consolidated control of land thus enabling them to exercise strict control over the viticultural aspects that results in better quality control in the production of wine.The average annual production of B-S is 2 million bottles and the wine is exported to many countries including India.
While still conversing, we moved for a specially hosted lunch with carefully assembled wine pairings. The gourmet lunch progressed as follows:




Billecart Salmon Brut 2000, Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 

A Vintage Champagne in its prime having a nose of floral and toasty aromas with a hint of woodiness. The palate had surprisingly good levels of acidity (given its vintage) that made it super refreshing along with the complexity developed over the years. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Grand Cru areas of Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, it went exceptionally well with the pairings as under:

Entrée: Roasted Scampi, Scampi Ravioli Pasta, Cabbage cooked in butter, Scampi juice.
Main Course: White Fish cooked slowly in oven, Cheese-Pork risotto.


Billecart Salmon Brut Sous Bois


Sous Bois is the French word for Under Wood- which means that this Champagne has undergone oak treatment during the vinification process. The wine is an assemblage of all three grape varietals applicable to Champagne viz Pinot Noir, Chardonnay & Pinot Meunier. With 12% alcohol, this Champagne is well balanced with delectable aromas of citrus and dry fruits. On the palate it has a medium body with creamy texture and flavours of nuts & candy. The serving temperature recommended by the producer is 10° C in order to enable true appreciation of the wine’s complexity, and the suggestion did not feel out of place. The wine was paired with an assortment of French cheeses in perfect harmony.

Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé  2002, Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon


One of the popular wines in the millionaires club, this wine is a 50:50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vinified as white wines. A certain percentage of red Pinot Noir wine is later added during the assemblage to give it a beautiful hue bordering on pink and orange. The bouquet is complex with aromas of figs, honey and confectionery. The palate is intensely fruity underlined by the influence of oak and spice. It paired beautifully with the dessert course of Red fruits and Champagne soup with Plum Cake, and served as an example that a dessert course need not necessarily be paired solely with sweet wines.

Champagne Maturing in  Bottles in the B-S Cellars
The lunch concluded amidst discussions with Antoine on the extent of adaptation of modern practices in Champagne production while still maintaining the artisan skills passed down the generations. Needless to mention- we came back enlightened apart from being pickled in the finest Champagnes.

Coming up in next posts: Champagne houses of Cattier, Taittinger and more...




Saturday, October 6, 2012

My French Wine Odyssey

 12 days, 16 wine estates all over France and a kickstart in the form of an all expenses paid trip. Sounds like a dream ? Indeed it was a dream that I realised when I took off for France on a Scholarship trip to the famous Champagne area by virtue of my fanaticism for wine that resulted in the award of a Global Scholarship by Comite Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC)- the apex body of Champagne producers. The Champagne trip was a hectic itinerary of 4 days and the wine freak in me could not just get around the thought of concluding the visit to the Mecca of wine (read France) so soon after having  made all the effort to reach there. Voila! I tapped one of my friends in France linked to the wine trade and fixed up an extended schedule to visit the other famous wine regions in a reasonable time frame- and my French Wine Odyssey was on!

My wine route chart in France worked out as  Champagne-Bordeaux-Provence-Rhone Valley-Beaujolais before returning to Paris for my flight back to India. The 12 days spent undoubtedly were super hectic but of immense value due to the exposure received in all aspects of winemaking from amongst the best and accomplished winemakers in the world. On the sidelines, it also afforded me an opportunity to put into practical use, my whatsoever knowledge of French language!
Having been to all these famous wine areas, I decided to chronicle them in my blog so as to share the experiences and possibly act as a guide to those who would like to proceed on similar sojourns. The blog posts would start in the same sequence as my route chart given above so watch this space for the first sub-post coming up on my Champagne experience in the coming week. I would encourage you to give comments on any queries or observations that you may have or if you would like to interact at an individual level, feel free to mail me at  ravi@ravikjoshi.com .

Au Revoir!

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Tasting Bordeaux Grands Crus Wines: Vintage 2009

 


 Winning the Champagne Scholarship has done  many good things to me. One of these is getting invited to prestigious wine tasting events which I would not have otherwise foreseen myself as attending- being not originally from the Wines profession. So when I received the invite from the Group Ritu office (organisers of the event) to attend an exclusive tasting of the 2009 vintage of Bordeaux Grand Cru wines, my joy new no bounds. The prospective of tasting several Grands Crus wines within a span of two hours under one roof is an opportunity that any wine lover would give his right arm-for; and there I was with an invite in my hands!  This  was an inaugural  event in India  by Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, an association of 132 grands crus estates that has been hosting tastings of Grand Cru wines from Bordeaux  worldwide.

Grands Crus are formally documented Quality Wine Producing Specific Regions (QWPSR) in Bordeaux, France with the initial classification taking place in 1855 A.D. (Napoleonic era) followed by subsequent additional classifications in the 20th century after World War- II. These areas have strict regulations in place to ensure the right kind of cultivation and production practices to ensure consistently high  quality wines.

 The D-day  was 25 May 2012 and the venue- The Oberoi Hotel, Gurgaon, India. As I entered the lobby, I saw famous faces from the wine world engaged in intimate discussions. Picking up my registration card and a Tasting Note Book from the reception, I soaked in the ambience through the glass façade of the beautifully landscaped hotel. The event kicked-off shortly thereafter as we entered the expansive hall where tables with wines from different producers were set up in a quadrangular fashion with islands in between.  Carrying out an initial recce of the hall, I tried to figure out the optimal sequence of tasting the wines on offer and marked it on the respective pages of the very functional and thoughtfully crafted Tasting Booklet provided at the Registration Desk. For tasting (or Dégustation as the French call it) of  several wines on a single occasion, the widely accepted guidelines are:
  • Whites to be followed by Reds and Sweet wines towards the end.
  • Lighter to Fuller bodied wines.
  • Subtle to intensely flavoured wines.

 Keeping with these guidelines, I started tasting the wines from various producers.The highlights of the tasting  were:-

Whites


 Bordeaux whites are produced using two main grape varieties viz. Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. In certain wines  Muscadelle is also used. The proportion of these grapes is the main determinant (amongst other factors of soil type, production methods etc)of the final character of the wine. In the context of Bordeaux, while a Sauvignon Blanc predominant wine is more aromatic with vegetal and stone fruits (peaches, apricots etc) flavours, Semillon lends it more alcohol and the resultant fuller body. Muscadelle increases the aromatic character and smoothness of the wine. Psychological factor of  Grands Crus apart, most of the wines were refreshing and pleasing to the palate with my favourite top three being:

  • Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion (Pessac Léognan)- 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon.
  • Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac Léognan)- 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon.
  • Château Malartic Lagraviere (Pessac Léognan)- 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon.

Reds

 The reds from Bordeaux are more difficult to appreciate than the whites at a young age of three years. But seasoned tasters sample these mostly to figure out as to how these wines would evolve after a few years i.e. 10 years and later. The constituent grape varieties are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with some wines having a proportion of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wines from the left bank of the Gironde estuary (flowing into Bordeaux from the Atlantic Ocean) are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, while those from  the right bank  have Merlot as the main component. This also translates into the reality that  the right bank wines are ready to be drunk comparatively earlier than their left bank counterparts; but then the desired point on the continuum between early drinkability and complexity is something which is based on personal preferences.

 As for me, I tried to decipher the various reds based on two parameters; firstly on the nature of tannins -whether they were round (pleasing) or square (not so pleasing) and secondly, the length of the wine i.e. the lingering taste in the mouth. It was a tough job though, because of the palate getting tired after tasting four to five wines continuously and forcing me to take a stroll every now and then  to the area where  water and munchies were placed to refresh the palate. My favourite reds were:-
  • Chateau  Franc Mayne (St Émilion)- 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc.
  • Château Gazin (Pomerol)- 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc.
  • Château Dauzac (Margaux)- 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot.


 True to the proverbial context, the icing on the cake was the sweet wine - an amorous Chateau  Doisy Daene from the famous Sauternes and Barsac area. With  87 % Semillon (The grape famous for its susceptibility to Noble Rot) and 13% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine had  a text book  balance of sweetness and acidity, so much so, that I felt compelled to ask for a second serving from the charismatic representative of the Chateau. Thus concluded my tasting experience on a heavenly sweet note and a lingering wish to get further such opportunities of grand tastings!

P.S.-  For a detailed slide show, please browse to the end of this post.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Saying Santé to French Wines

Mention French Wines and the invariable response is WOW! Such is the image of this beautiful denizen of France that it immediately invokes images of quality and class. So when my French language trainer Monsieur Haru Mehra of Frehindi Foundation asked for the possibility to include French wines in his regular French Café afternoons- an interactive platform on French culture, I could not, but nod my head in affirmation- and so was born the French Wine and Café Evening (note that the erstwhile Afternoon was replaced by Evening to make it more conducive to Wines especially so, in the Indian milieu).
The issues to be addressed however were:

  • Where to get the wines from (preferably on sponsorship)
  • Whether to use proper wine glasses or paper cups. (since the tasting was to be in a classroom setup).

After initial frustrating attempts to get the wines sponsored (as nobody would risk it on a non-commercial concept), the old adage of Fortune favouring the Brave manifested, with both the issues getting automatically resolved by Mr. Rajiv Singhal- the Champagne Ambassador to India and Editor of the uber chic Fine Wine and Champagne,India magazine, very kindly proposing to sponsor a Champagne and a Red Wine with the aim of highlighting two vastly different wine producing regions of France and what's more- the glasses too! 
As goes the Urdu couplet- Rasme Duniya bhi hai, Mauka bhi, Dastoor bhi hai (The timing befits the situation and purpose) the grand event debuted on 14 Jul 12  being the anniversary of the French Republic also known as Bastille day. The overwhelming response from prospective attendees forced us to have a morning session in addition to our planned evening session. So while the morning session saw a très young crowd jive to the tune of French numbers and tasting some sprightly wines, the evening one had professionals from all walks of life doing some really serious wine analysis.
Coming to the Wines, one was a Taittinger Champagne quite obviously from the Champagne region which is the northern-most wine producing area of France and the other, Corbières, a  Red wine from Languedoc ,the southern-most region.


Tasting Notes

Wine: Champagne Brut Réserve 
Producer: Taittinger
Year: N.A. (Non Vintage Champagne)

Putting it Simply
A lively and refreshing sparkler with a distinctly toasty palate true to the Champagne pedigree. An indisputable  party starter.

Tasting Notes
 Crystal clear pale lemon wine that pours with an impressive mousse- the bubble beads being persistent and a delight to observe. An intensely toasty aroma unveils right from the pouring of the wine and continues as a major highlight throughout the experience, though not overwhelming so as to dominate the other delicately floral and peachy aromas. The palate is light bodied and dry with just the right level of acidity for a highly appetizing and refreshing experience.


Wine: Corbières
Producer: Les Terroises
Year: 2006

Putting it simply
A robust yet gentle wine that is just perfect to be drunk now. Good for pairing with with Tandoori and Mughlai cuisines or herbed pasta.
Tasting Notes
Deep garnet and earthy brown appearance depicting good age. An intense fruity bouquet of red fruits, spice, cedarwood and dug up earth. A dry, medium bodied palate with well rounded tannins, complementing acidity and a smooth long finish.





While the guests dwelled on the characteristics of the wines on offer, there were interesting discussions on numerous topics like storing, serving and pairing wines as also comparison between wines from different countries. The event concluded with the bright prospective of having more such events that promote wine enthusiasm.




Saturday, July 21, 2012

Guns to Gewürztraminer- Why the unusual Title?


The Beginning

Scandalising tagline  apart, the transition is for real. An itch that  existed  for umpteen years finally got the better of me and I could not help but dive head-on into the world of Wines and Spirits- inarguably a drastic change from handling Guns to Wine Bottles.

So when I launched my personal website (www.ravikjoshi.com) on Wine and Spirits (W&S) towards the end of 2011, there were mixed reactions. Some of my friends found it to be a good start, some offered me constructive criticism on the deficiencies and bugs and still others got worried for me for abandoning my secure job and engaging in a seemingly superfluous pursuit in the context of my other professional skills. Further, my accomplished friends  in the W&S trade adviced me to focus either on Wine OR Spirits so as not to confuse the prospective readers.

Duly respecting their well meaning practical advice , and yet still listening to my inner voice, I consciously decided that though I may dwell deeper into wines, content on other alcoholic beverages will also form part of  these annals - as variety sparks interest and chases away the humdrum.

Guns- Understood, but why Gewürz ?

Frankly, Gewürztraminer rhymes well with Guns- hence the name. However, more logically, Gewürztraminer is a grape variety that quite famously suits the Asian palate due to its spicy and tropical fruits orientation. I suppose that gives me enough reason to make it a mascot of my passion of wine and spirits.

What's this blog about?

You can expect here, some practical and passionate discussions on W&S with a ‘no holds barred’ approach, leaving aside the jargon, pretentiousness, snobbery or any false facades- together, hand in hand and on back-slapping terms. Enjoyment being ours for times to come....