Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Rendez-vous Cattier- Encore!





Wines for the Evening
Pervasive luxury has to be the norm when a glitzy and glamorous Champagne House does a national level launch of its beauties. We are talking of Cattier- the famous Champagne house, that was recently in news when guests of famous Hollywood actor Leonardo di Caprio swirled and sipped  $ 3.5 million worth of its prestige cuvée Armand de Brignac at his birthday celebrations. The occasion this time however, was the India launch of Cattier held in New Delhi at Hotel ITC Maurya and came as a precursive cooler to the already soaring mercury in the Indian capital.

M. Jean-Jacques Cattier introducing the wines
Cattier is a family owned Champagne house that has owned vineyards in the exclusive Montagne de Reims area of Champagne since 1763. 1918 onwards, the house started producing Champagne under its own family name and currently exports to more than 60 countries worldwide (India being the latest). The wine styles range from crisp and minerally Blanc de Blancs (white wine from white grapes) to elegantly structured Rosés, and firm yet sophisticated Blanc de Noirs (white wine from black grapes) . I was disappointed though, to discover from Philippe that for the time being, Armand de Brignac would elude the Indian shores due to current market dynamics as envisaged by their importers- the Sri Lanka based Kosmos Group. Hope the viability is pretty soon!

Hors d'ouvres





My association with the Champagne house started last autumn when I went visiting them at Chigny les Roses in the very heart of Champagne district between Reims and Epernay. A visit to their three floors deep cellars and a dégustation session with none other than their President Monsieur Jean-Jacques Cattier was an  experience (read my earlier blogpost on Maison Cattier) that I started cherishing already.  So when I received an email from M Philippe Bienvenu,  Commercial Director Cattier, inviting me rather modestly for ‘a flute of Champagne’ to celebrate the launch of Cattier wines in India, my anticipation started building up. Needless to mention, the celebrations went miles ahead of a simple flute!
It  was deja vu to find M Cattier and Philippe warmly welcoming guests at the venue, even as the evening began with rounds of aperitif and hors d’oeuvres indicating the gourmet fare that lay ahead. Around an hour of tête-à-tête later, the dinner doors were opened and revealed
The Bubbly starts pouring!
immaculately laid out tables ready to receive the five course fare and the guests partaking of it. The selective gathering comprised of well heeled wine lovers from different vocations and it showcased the producer’s seriousness for reaching out to the widest possible cross-section of the Indian market.
Course by course, the experience unfolded as follows (since I opted for non-vegetarian cuisine, my apologies to vegetarians for skipping the detailed description and photos of veg dishes):

First Course (Entrée)



Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Type: Vintage 2005
Blend: 1/3rd each Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs. 4500.00

Vinotheque in French means “Library of Wines”. As I discussed this aspect with Philippe, he told me the significance of the name being in the exotic and collectible nature of the wine that is akin to storing in a library, only to be pulled out for use when the situation is apt- to say so- with the compatible mood, food and of course the ambience!




Accompanied Food:


Vegetarian : Summer mushroom fondue drizzled with white truffle oil and butter fried
goujons in  chive oil.

Non Vegetarian: Olive oil poached Scampi masked in raw Mango confit, paired with Sevruga caviar, port poached figs.

Tasting Notes: Clear pale gold colour with shimmering reflections. Aromas of golden apple, lemon and brioche. Refreshing acidity and layered complexity on the palate. Worked well with the freshness of Scampi, the tanginess of Mango confit and the salty palate coating texture of the Sevruga caviar.

Second Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque


Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: White corn agnolotti tossed in curry emulsion with beetroot essence.

Non Vegetarian: Chilean Sea bass napped in fennel confit, served with a side of fennel dill crescents and mustard butter.

Tasting Notes: As above. The wine complemented the freshness of Sea bass and balanced the aromatic complexity of the dish. And yes, the creamy texture of the dish found a great companion in the refreshing acidity of the wine.

Palate Cleanser

Green Apple Armagnac Sorbet- Served in an alloy spoon atop crushed ice in a cocktail glass.
Worked well to demagnetise the palate.

Third Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Blanc de Noirs

Type: Non Vintage
Blend: 70 % Pinot Noir, 30 % Pinot Meunier
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: NA (currently not being imported in India)

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: Provencal aubergine rollatini on a bed of stewed baby tomatoes risotto and side of cumin spinach gnuddi.

Non Vegetarian: Slow braised lamb shanks, served with red wine Cipollini onions and rosemary thyme infused oil.

Officially, this third course was served with the Rose 1er Cru, but for me, Cattier Blancs de Noirs stole the show- and for good reason! First, I had already tasted this wine last autumn at Maison Cattier with none other than M Cattier himself and come to know of its virtues. Second, the robust dish with which it was served on this occasion had a perfect companion in this gladiatorial wine!  Incidentally, at hors d’ouvres   Philippe had indicated a ‘surprise’   inclusion in the degustation menu- and this happened to be it, being the unannounced entry that M Cattier ferried personally from France. This does not mean that the Rose was any less, but with Blancs de Noirs around, it gracefully bowed out to shine fully in the ensuing dessert course!

Tasting Notes: A pink gold colour expressing the strength harnessed within. A complex bouquet of black currants, plums, nuts and a distinct feel of spice. On the palate it was firm with lots of red fruits, jam and a hint of white pepper. The finish was smooth and lingering. The steely structure of the wine stood up perfectly to the firm and bouncy textured lamb. The medium sweetness of Cippolini onions was a delight with the spicy traits of the wine, and so were the aromatics of the dish that worked well with its layered complexity. It would not be an exaggeration to state the likeness of the pairing  to “brick and mortar” !

Fourth Course (Dessert)

Wine: Cattier Rosé Glamour 

Type: Non Vintage
Blend: 30 % Pinot Noir, 60 % Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs 5600.00

Accompanied Food 

Caramelised Butter petit pots with almond tuille, side of coddled summer fruits and vanilla pod freeze.
Tasting Notes: A clear, beautiful salmon pink colour with aromas of strawberries, black currant and toast. A fresh and lively palate of abundant red fruits accompanied by a smooth, lingering finish. A residual sugar content of 25 gms per litre classifies it in the Sec (Dry) category thereby  giving the richness for pairing with a fresh dessert like the one above. Worked quite well with the creamy, mildly sweet, nutty and fresh nature of the dessert.


The dinner concluded with an aromatic
espresso accompanied by hand made chocolates and the celebrated artiste  Peter Mehta rendering Big Mountain’s sonorous- “Ooh Baby baby it’s a wild world“ with lilting piano notes.  “A' Bientôt- Au Revoir”- bade Philippe before I made a promise to Monsieur Cattier for a rendez-vous encore… maybe in France.. maybe in India!


Tuesday, May 7, 2013

When it Rained Wines from Spain






And literally so! With around 100 wines from 19 Spanish winemakers showcased in the already sizzling Indian capital, it was a rainfall of sorts that made wine professionals and connoisseurs feel the urge to tap-dance between wine bottles and get drenched in the vinous mélange!

The event called "Spanish Wine Showcase and Tasting" was  organised at the behest of the Ambassador of Spain in India  H.E. Gustavo Manuel de Aristegui- an ardent wine lover himself,  and helmed by Madame Isabel Mijares, the internationally renowned oenologist from Spain. The agenda for the day was a Press Conference followed by a grand tasting of Spanish wines.
 H.E.  Gustavo Manuel de Aristegui  (First from left)

As I entered the Spanish Ambassador’s residence at Firoze Shah road in New Delhi, a vigilant person checked my name in the list of invitees and guided me to the conference area, which had the typical charm of a Lutyen’s Delhi bungalow  accentuated by plush seating, antique carpets and  wall pieces  exuding  a definite Spanish character.

Winemakers with Madame Isabel Mijares  (First lady from Right)
The press conference started with the Ambassador giving a brief background on Spanish wines and how these were poised to become more active on the Indian wine scene. This was followed by  each winery being introduced passionately by the respective winemakers, with flutes of Cava doing the rounds. A quick Q&A session later, we were ready for the tasting organised at the lush lawns of the bungalow.

Before I describe the tasting, a quick snapshot on Spanish wines would be in order :


Wine Areas

Spain is the third largest country in Europe with the largest area of vineyards in the world, the third largest wine production by volume, and highest wine exports globally.

There are 17 autonomous  wine regions in Spain with around  half of them situated in Castilla-La-Mancha (48.7% of planted vines), followed by Extremadura, Valencia, Castilla y León, Catalonia, Rioja, Aragon, Murcia and Andalucía. The most well known classified wine regions of the country are Rioja, Tarragona, Cariñena, Penedés, Ribera del Duero, Valdepeñas, La Mancha and Rueda- which is also the  first authorized and most known region.

Grape Varieties

The most common grape varietals in Spain are Airén (23.5%), Tempranillo (20.9%),Bobal (7.5%), Red Garnacha, Monastrell, Pardina, Macabeo and Palomino, in descending order of cultivation. Of these varieties, Tempranillo, Bobal, Red Garnacha and Monastrell are red, while the others are white.

With Laura González of  Bodegas Viyuela
With close to 100 wines out of which I could manage to sample only a third, it would be a litany of tasting notes, if all were attempted. Hence I am listing out only five wines representing distinct regions and styles. There were many other good wines that I regret  not to include here, but in all fairness, I have linked  the respective websites with winery names in the table at the end of this post so that you could visit them according to your interest in the region/ grape varietal. As for Sherry, I will do a separate blog post subsequently to do it full justice.


Wine: Cava Rosat Brut Reserva
Producer: Agustí Torelló Mata
Grape Variety: Trepat
Alcohol Content: 11.5%

Cava wines are produced in the same method as Champagne i.e. by undergoing second fermentation in the bottle itself- that lends it more complexity and sustainable effervescence. I tasted for the first time, a sparkling wine made from Trepat (which is the indigenous grape varietal of  North East Spain) and liked the experience. The wine was an attractive cherry pink in colour and poured with an abundant mousse. It had intense aromas of strawberries, vanilla and a little mint. The palate was creamy with refreshing acidity and flavours of red berries and toasted bread. I would like to buy this wine when available and after the conversation with the winemaker, I could calculate the retail price as under Rs 4000/- if it arrives on Indian retail shelves- which is quite reasonable for a sparkling wine of this quality .





Wine: Matarromera Reserva 
Year: 2006
Producer: Matarromera
Grape Variety: Tempranillo
Alcohol Content: 14 %

This winery already has its wines retailing in India with their importer being Advanced Life Sciences (Private Limited) based at Delhi. The wine is from the Ribera del Duero region, which is known for its powerful reds. Dark ruby in colour, the wine exuded aromas of red cherries, plums, liquorice and sweet spices. Despite 14 % alcohol in the wine (which is a higher side) the wine did not smell too alcoholic and that was a welcome trait. On the palate the wine gave an impression of red fruits, spice and medium tannins. The finish was smooth and lingering.










Wine: Flor de Gewürztraminer
Year: 2012
Producer: Laus
Grape Variety: Gewürztraminer
Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

This is a wine that would invariably be popular amongst wine consumers in tropical countries like India. There were many wine lovers at the event who agreed with me on this account- and the reason for this upbeat feeling? The wine has it all for being a blockbuster in this part of the world- an off dry feel, refreshing palate, tropical flavours of lychees and mangoes, aromas of wild roses and tropical fruits. The wine comes from Somontano region in North East Spain.







Wine: Chardonnay 234
Year: 2011
Producer: Enate
Grape Variety: Chardonnay
Alcohol Content: 14.5 %

The suffix ‘234’ in the name of the wine signifies a prized plot number in the Enate valley in Somontano, from where 100% grapes of this wine are sourced. A cool refreshing Chardonnay with an intense bouquet of apples, peaches and fennel. On the palate, it had medium to full body, complex flavours with rich mouth filling fruit and a long finish. A thirst quencher wine for sure!












Wine: AN/2
Year: 2010
Producer: Anima Negra
Grape Varieties: Callet, Manto Negro and Fogoneu
Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

It was but obvious that I had to try this wine as it is from the Mallorca island off the coast of Spain towards the east in the Mediterranean sea, with typical grape varietals of the region. The wine is a blend of three native grapes  from the island and was an entirely new experience for me. The wine was translucent ruby in colour with a  bouquet of wild berries, tar and coffee . The palate was medium-bodied with round tannins and plenty of red fruits accompanied with a lingering finish. I would love to have this wine with a barbecue spread!






Most of the winemakers at the tasing were positive about putting their wines on the Indian retail shelves very soon. In fact some are already here and are working on expanding their range further. With the prospects of import duties on wines in India falling to one third levels looking more probable considering the latest developments between India and European Union,I suppose a wine bonanza should soon unleash at the Indian shores- and there are countless wine fans to lap it up all!

Wineries Represented at the tasting

Ser No
Bodega (Winery)
DO (Quality Wine Area)
Grapes
Wines
1
Penedes
 Cava
Macabeo, Xarel-Lo, Perellada ,Trepat
Sparkling, White
2
Mallorca
Montsant
Callet, Mantonegro, Fogoneu,Prensal,
Garnacha, Cariñena

White, Red
3
Rias Baixas
Albarino
White
4
Ribera Del Guadiana
Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano, Tempranillo, Syrah

Red
5

Toro
Tinta De Toro

Red
6
Somontano
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot
White, Red, Rose
7
Jerez-Sherry
 Rioja
 Cava
Rueda
Palomino, Pedro Ximinez, Vardejo,
Macabeo, Xarel.Lo. Parellada,Tempranillo, Garnacha
Sparkling, White, Red, Fortified
8
Rioja
Ribera Del Duero Valdepeñas


Tempranillo
Red
9
Binissalem
Mantonegro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo
Callet,Moll,Chardonnay
Moscatel


Red, White, Sweet
10
Cava
Pinot Noir, Macabeo, Xarel.Lo, Parellada

Sparkling
11
Somontano
Gewürztraminer,
Chardonnay,
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo



Red, White, Rose
12
Ribera Del Duero
Cigales
 Rueda
Tempranillo, Verdejo
Red, White
13
Vinos De La Tierra De Leon

Prieto Picudo

Red, Rose
14
Rioja
Cava
Viura, Malvasia
Garnacha, Tempranillo
Mazuelo


Red, White, Rose, Sparkling
15
Ribera del Duero
La Mancha
Castilla Y Leon

Tempranillo
Red
16
Rioja
Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon
Red
17
Cataluña
Penedes,Rioja, Brandy
Chardonnay,
Gewürztraminer, Moscatel De Alexandria,
Sauvignon Blanc
Macabeo, Parellada Xarel.Lo


Red, White
18
Ribera del Duero
Tempranillo
Red
19
Ribera del Duero
Tempranillo
Red