When Wine becomes a Magic Potion!

 Asterix fans would probably recall a particular issue of the famed comic series in which Getafix, the village druid- who makes the Gauls superhumans with his magic potion- embarks on an annual druids conference. The next few pages in the issue depict Getafix having a ball with his druid chums each of whom is accomplished in his own right. The druids also enter their inventions to compete for the coveted 'Golden Menhir" that Getafix ultimately ends up winning.

From: Asterix and the Goths (publishers- Hodder Dargaud)

Before you wonder if this post is about the Asterix series (which I  love to revisit endlessly) let me shift the focus back to our good old 'magic potion' viz. wine. Recently when a sommelier friend came visiting at Delhi, I approached a couple of close wine friends for a BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) gathering and the Gaulish druids conference was the first thing that came to my mind. Only here, we had different professionals  connected to the wine trade bringing in their unique experiences- and of course a cherished wine from their respecive personal collection. 

The visitor was Kamal Malik, currently the Head Sommelier of  the prestigious hotel Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. Kamal has been a close friend ever since the two of us embarked on a scholarship trip to Champagne. Hitting it off well, we kept in contact thereafter - exchanging wine notes and meeting up whenever the opportunity arose. And this was one such opportunity albeit a better planned one.

Apart from the two of us, the other vinos were Rajiv Singhal, the Ambassador of Champagne in India (under whose tutelage we had undertaken the Champagne trip),  Arjun Sachar, a young wine professional with a French cooperage and  the husband-wife team of Sumit and Chiquita Gulati  who own a wine savvy restaurant called Gulati Spice Market in the heart of New Delhi (also our venue for the evening). Our kitty for the proposed rendezvous was quite inspiring , with  a Champagne, a Burgundy Premier Cru, two Bordeaux Grands Crus and a Spanish dessert wine.

The wines (less the "Golden Menhir")

Came D day and we scrambled with pre chilled wine bottles to the venue. This was a meeting where no instructions had to be passed- the  importance of chilling, decanting and sequencing being a matter of unsaid wine propriety. The venue owners being on our side, we were good on the food front too. And so the indulgence commenced:

Champagne Alfred Gratien Cuvée Paradis

This was the first cork to be popped for the day. Being a worthy guardian of his protégé, Rajiv initially suggested that we serve the Champagne at number two after the Burgundy, but Kamal was able to convince him for serving the Champagne au début.

Alfred Gratien is an Epernay based producer widely known as an artisanal winemaker with a distinctly vinous wine style. Cuvée Paradis is their prestige offering with a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A delightful Champagne, it poured with a luxuriant mousse, thereafter retaining the visual appeal with a persistent bead of fine bubbles. Its complexity could be sensed right from the nose which expressed layered aromas of red and dried fruits. A lush and medium bodied palate followed by a lingering finish completed the experience.We were served an assortment of cheeses, dips and crackers and mildly flavoured tapas that made the match more than ideal. We couldn't have expected lesser from an  Ambassadeur du Champagne. Could we?

Château de Blagny Meursault 2006 by Louis Latour

 When Arjun Sachar discussed this wine with me before finalising it for our rendezvous, he was on better side of caution, given the wine’s vintage- being a white. However both of us decided to include it solely on its pedigree. After all it was from the famed limestone soils of  Côte  de Beaune! The wine did not disappoint either. Initially appearing as “over the hill”, it had us all discussing as to how good it must have been in its prime. The next sip and we were humbled because the aromas and flavours arrived as if from thin air. This was a delicately perfumed wine redolent of white flowers, peaches and melons. Nutty/ oxidative aromas lent it a pleasant complexity. The wine retained its acidity admirably well rendering it a good balance. Arjun received a well deserved pat on the back for deciding to open this wine just in time.

Château Giscours Grand Cru 2000 and 2009

A wine that was received by me as a gift  two years back, Giscours 2000 was preserved just for an occasion like this. What I didn’t  anticipate was that Rajiv would offer another vintage of this Troisième Grand Cru  to enable a mini vertical tasting. These two wines were undoubtedly the stars of the evening. Each of them decanted for an hour plus, they offered an entirely different spectrum of aromas/flavours that beautifully demonstrated the evolution of a high quality wine with time. While Giscours 2000 had gamey, meaty and tobacco aromas followed by a savoury palate of , bacon, chocolate and spice, Giscours 2009 was more sophisticated with characteristics of blackberries, vanilla, cassis  and berry compote.  Nothing could have matched the rustic Indian preparations of Burrah Kabab (Char grilled lamb ribs) and Galouti Kababs on Sheermal ( Finely minced pan fried lamb kababs over baked sweetened bread) better.

Up and close with the wines. Notice the corks of both Grands Crus with darker one (left)  of Giscours 2000 indicating higher tannin pigmentation

The decadent food pairings by Sumit and Chiquita Gulati

Our "Golden Menhir"

Torres Floralis-Moscatel Oro

Apart from playing generous hosts for this eclectic outing, Sumit and Chiquita Gulati also pitched in with this wine to round off the experience. Hence this surprise inclusion was no less than the "Golden Menhir" for all of us. Torres Floralis-Moscatel Oro  has a radiant golden colour with aromas of white flowers spice and honey. It has a luxuriant palate of honey, licorice, dried fruits and white pepper. The Moong Dal Cigar with Rabri dip (Cooked lentils in sugar syrup stuffed in filo pastry  and served with thickened milk dip) matched the voluptuous wine rather well.

From: Asterix and the Goths (publishers- Hodder Dargaud)

Thus concluded our "druids conference" where all of us felt like winners. More than anything, this was a rendezvous  about friends meeting on a common platform of wine passion and ‘letting the hair down’ without bothering about taking notes or pouring pre defined measures. 

After all  wine is no less than Getafix's magic potion! Isn't it?

Top (L-R) Rajiv Singhal, Kamal Malik, Arjun Sachar, Sumit and Chiquita Gulati, Me

Bottom (L) Rajiv doing the honours with the Champagne.

Bottom (R) Once a Sommelier- always one- Kamal Malik instinctively taking to wine service

Wine Masterclass by Bill Hardy

“Masterclass” is a term we often come across in today’s wine world. It essentially denotes a deep dive familiarization with target wines, fringing on technicalities. It is also an often misused term , with innumerable instances of generic wine tastings being passed off  as “masterclasses”. But when a winemaker himself conducts such a class, its raison d’être  surpasses the realm of definitions, as was the case when William (Bill) Hardy- the fifth generation helmsman of Australia’s biggest winemaker Hardys Wines conducted a series of masterclasses in Delhi/Mumbai. Spread over two days, these masterclasses were meant primarily for the hospitality trade and selected wine media. I had the privilege of attending the one in New Delhi  at hotel ITC Maurya in the closing days of Aug 15.

Bill Hardy conducting his Masterclass in New Delhi

(Pic: Sula Selections)

Hardys has been in India since the year 2003 through their importer Sula Selections. Then why this

masterclass now? Bill Hardy told me that given the positive sentiment about India as an emerging wine consuming nation, efforts to “train the trainer” are considered to be in good stead. These efforts are also necessary to  consolidate Australia’s enviable position as the largest wine exporter to India in terms of volume. According to him, the Indian wine market has been showing admirable maturity over the years and it is a must for such an emerging market to have professionals who can present a particular wine to the consumer in the right earnest.

The wines for the masterclass were from Hardys Stamp collection. Bill brought out that this range was inspired by their founder Thomas Hardy’s vision of popularizing Australian wines in the world. He highlighted that the majority of grapes for this collection are from warm, inland river regions, producing wines that are full flavoured, fruit forward and smooth- a character  preferred in everyday drinking wines.

(Pic: Sula Selections)

The Delhi masterclass commenced with Bill familiarizing the audience with Australian wine producing regions and how these could be mapped to entire Europe in terms of vineyard area. He highlighted the typical characteristics of each of these regions, explaining step by step the production philosophy behind each of his presented wines, including their probable Indian food matches. The session progressed with the wines served as under:

(Pic: Sula Selections)

Hardys Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV

Made from two of the Champagne grapes, this wine is a straightforward sparkling with yeasty, citrusy  and tropical fruit aromas. A refreshing spritzy palate makes it a good ‘evening starter’. Bill said that they employ both traditional and charmat methods in their sparkling wine production and this particular wine has been elaborated by using the charmat method, keeping in line with its affordability aspect.

Hardys Riesling Gewürztraminer 2014

A  popular wine in Asia, Bill informed that their Riesling-Gewürztraminer also sells well in Canada and British Columbia presumably due to a large migrant Asian population. The wine, with its honeyed, tropical fruits, and off dry (residual sugar 15 g/l) character is quite well suited to Asian cuisine. It’s lingering finish completes its profile as a gourmet wine. In addition Bill highlighted a subtle petillance (fizz) in the wine which is purposefully crafted to give it an extra refreshing character.The wine was indeed very pleasing and I thought of a shaslik of cottage cheese, pineapple, onion and bell peppers as its ideal food accompaniment.

Hardys Chardonnay Semillon 2014

A deep lemon, light bodied wine with a creamy palate and a discernibly oaky character. Bill educated us that for the Stamp range, they use an innovative and cost effective method of oaking called “plank in tank” wherein oak planks with sawed off edges are dropped into wine tanks for better surface area (six sides as opposed to four) contact. This method enables faster oaking at a relatively lower cost, which is very important for keeping the affordability aspect of the range intact. In addition, this wine is oxygenated using medical grade oxygen to impart oxidative complexity. The result is a fairly complex wine affordable as a regular indulgence.

Hardys Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot 2014

Bill Hardy is the first Aussie winemaker to be trained in Bordeaux, that too under the famous French oenologist Émile Peynaud. His affinity to the “Bordeaux style” can be noted in this essentially Bordeaux blend with good structure as well as an intense but restrained fruity character. Bill informed that this wine is also oaked “plank in tank” for 3 months in Burgundian oak that has loose grains that promote faster ageing.

Hardys Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Shiraz- Cabernet Sauvignon blend is by far the most popular red wine blend in Asia Pacific region owing to its affinity to spicy cuisine. Aussie Shiraz  is  well known for its ripe and full bodied flavours. Bill explained that in this blend, around 30% Cabernet Sauvignon is added to  the remaining 70 % Shiraz in to balance out the voluptuousness of the wine. The result is a savoury wine well suited to rich Asian cuisine.

The masterclass concluded with young interns as well as seasoned professionals satisfying their queries from an immensely approachable Bill.

After all you don’t  come across Masters so often! Do you?

One for posterity: Bill Hardy with the Masterclass attendees  (Pic: Sula Selections)

This post has also been published by Spiritz Magazine in their Sep 15 issue

A fresh whiff of wines from Greece

The economic crisis in Greece seems to have blown over and I sincerely hope that the country will have plenty of right reasons to be in news in the coming times. What makes me so optimistic is due to -what else- but Greek wines that bring a lot of promise to wine passionates.  I recently experienced some delicious Greek wines in New Delhi that made me wonder why I was not tasting them often. The tasting was held at the Embassy of Greece in New Delhi, with the Ambassador H.E. Ioannis E Raptakis playing  keen host. 

The wines were from Vaeni – a cooperative from Naoussa region in Macedonia famed for some great red wines made from the indigenous Xinomavro (In Greek, Xino means acid and Mavro means black – implying high acidity and high tannin grapes) varietal.  Greek wines are known to be localized to specific regions where all the country's 15 major grape varietals  are not to be found outside their respective regions. For Naoussa, the crowning glory is  the Xinomavro grape varietal and it was only befitting that Fountoulis George, President of Vaeni Cooperative arrived himself  to conduct the tasting with all passion. 

Greek wines – a historical perspective

History has it that Greece is one of the pioneers of winemaking with evidence of vineyards dating back to 2000 B.C. It was the Greeks, who transported wines to most of Europe through the Mediterranean. The country went into oblivion for a very significant period before the modern wine industry took shape post the world wars. The industry firmed up as Greece joined the Eurozone – and this brought investments and modern technology to its shores.

Wine map of Greece (Image source: vindulge.typepad.com)

Viticultural regions are found all over Greece – the major winemaking regions in Greece are Northern, Central, Peloponnese and certain islands off its coast. Greece retains several indigenous grape varietals – the major red varietals are Aghiorghitiko, Limnio, Mandelaria and Xinomavro and the whites are Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Savatiano and Robola – and they produce remarkably unique wines.

The Vaeni Cooperative

Vaeni Cooperative was formed in 1983 when 330 vine growers of Naoussa came together with an aim to make better use of their crop and act as a counterbalance for private companies. Mr George informed me that  their production philosophy is about keeping pace with the times by adapting new technology while still maintaining the considerations of their heritage. The cooperative today exports 30 per cent of its sales to 27 countries and Mr. George is quite optimistic about India becoming the 28th! They are also socially sensitive by providing direct employment to more than 250 families and indirectly to many more. 

The tasting

Wine lineup for the tasting

The wines being from Naoussa, all of them, whether white or red,  were from 100% Xinomavro varietal.  One could relate to these wines by drawing parallels with international varietals but their USP lay in their distinct character. One could actually feel that these were high quality wines from a different genre that packed the necessary punch for an altogether different wine experience .

Makedonikos 2014 (white) Alc 11.5%

This wine is made from  free run/first press juice and in fermented in stainless steel tanks- hence it was very fresh and aromatic. The nose was reminiscent  of  white flowers, ripe peaches and pears while the palate was refreshing and delicious. With a residual sugar of 9 g/l the wine’s off-dry disposition was matched well with ample acidity. The wine was a big hit during the tasting.

Naoussa 2010 (Red) Alc 12.5% 

A light ruby wine with fresh red fruits nose, most prominently red cherries. Light-medium bodied on the palate with an emphatic yet gentle structure, which came as a pleasant surprise going by the visibly low colour extraction. A wine that is good with savoury food.

Damaskinos 2011 (Red) Alc 13% 

Damaskinos means aromas of prunes, that according to the winemaker, gives this wine an unmistakable character. Sure enough, the medium ruby wine had cooked and dry fruit aromas along with a hint of mixed sweet spices such as vanilla and cinnamon. This was supplemented by a luscious palate of red apples, poached pears backed up by a smooth lingering finish.

Naoussa Grande Reserve 2008 (Red) Alc 13%

According to George, just the aromas of this wine could make you discern it’s rich character. Aged for two years in French oak barrels and rested in the bottle for at least two years before release, the wine had an expressive nose of black fruits, vanilla and a little spice. It had a palate coating consistency with pleasant tannins and lots of mixed berries on the palate.

Clockwise from top: 1.  Me with Mr. George Fountilis 2. H.E. Ioannis E Raptakis introducing the session 3. Engrossed audience

 My host, H.E. Ioannis E Raptakis, the Ambassador of Greece in India, informed me that after consistently promoting Greek olive oil and Feta cheese in India, the next step is to create an awareness of Greek wines in the country. The Ambassador  expressed lots of optimism about the prospect of Greek wines in India saying that India is one of their focus countries.

For the love of wine, this focus is more than welcome Mr. Ambassador!