Saturday, June 28, 2014

Liqueur Tales

Neelu browsing Liqueurs in Aquitaine (France)
Neelambar Badoni (Neelu)  is a multi faceted person. An  ex-banker who traded the omnipresent allure of a Greenbacks environment for the “ thrill of untrodden ways” (and that  happens to be the tagline of his company Trek Himalaya as well) is also a connoisseur of fine food, wine and being the quintessential Indian – Spirits too.
Recently back from a trip from Europe, Neelu placed four bottles  of liqueurs/bitters in front of me to choose one for keeps. Two of these- viz Jägermeister and Fernet Branca had gotten my hands dirty umpteen times earlier but two- Valamon Balsami and Lapponia Lakka were complete strangers.  Sensing my dilemma, Neelu generously offered to open up the newbies for  a quick faire connaissance (to my pleasure of course) - and we got cracking soon enough.


A brief snapshot on  Liqueurs before we look at the adventure as above. The term Liqueur essentially comes from Latin liquifacere , which means “to liquefy” . In essence, it implies flavours in liquid form that could be used conveniently in several applications. It all started with monks and seers extracting potions that could cure many a disease, and very soon these caught  the  fancy of the elite  in late middle- renaissance period, eventually becoming the toast of bartenders of the modern era who suddenly discovered  a potent tool to whip up intriguing cocktails. In today’s context, the European Union Spirits Regulations stipulate a sugar content of  100 gms per litre (lesser in exceptional cases) and 15% alcohol by volume for  an alcoholic drink made for human consumption, to be called a Liqueur. But the incorporated subjectivity gives ample room to tweak this definition by producers, thus fuelling  innovation , much to the consumer's delight!

Liqueurs essentially fall into three broad  categories; Herbal, Fruit and Cream. Depending on personal preferences, these could be used as aperitifs (before meals), digestifs (after meals) or blended into cocktails. Some popular liqueurs are:

Herbal: Chartreuse, Benédictine, Galliano, Campari,Angostura and Fernet-Branca (our star here).

Fruit:  Blue Curaçao, Grenadine, Crème de Cassis, Framboise, Midori etc.

Cream: Bailey’s Irish Cream, Amarula, Advokaat etc.

Coming to our tasting, we sampled the liqueurs as standalone followed by experimenting with some cocktail- known as well as fresh innovations. Here is how it progressed:

Jägermeister 

Packaging: 500 ml
ABV 35%

The emblem of a Stag with a shining cross is one of the most recognizable logos in the liqueur world and has its genesis in Hubertus- the patron saint of hunters giving up his passion when a spear launched by him got stuck between a Stag’s  antlers with a cross appearing  in its place. Popularised by its patented tap machines that serve  chilled Jäger shots as also exciting cocktails like Jäger bomb, it is an easy to drink liqueur which can go it alone owing to its balanced flavours and sweetness.
Tasting Notes: A luminescent brown colour with an orange rim and prominent aromas of liquorice and pepper. An energetic palate of liquorice, green herbs and spices coupled with a pleasant sweetness.

Cocktail Recipe
Jäger Bomb 
45 ml Jägermeister,  half a can of Red Bull energy drink. Pour chilled Red Bull in a highball glass so as to fill up till 3/4th . Pour super chilled (in the freezer) Jägermeister in a shot glass and gently drop the shot glass into the highball glass (to create a bombing effect) and savour immediately.


Fernet Branca

Packaging: 500 ml
ABV 39%

Widely acclaimed as the most famous bitter of the world, Fernet Branca comes from Fratelli Branca- a Milan (Italy)  based company that was founded by Bernadino Branca in early nineteenth century. The liqueur was a result of his perfecting a recipe by a Swedish doctor called Fernet as remedy to a cholera epidemic in 1836, but went on general sale in 1845 due to its ever increasing popularity as an aperitif. Currently in the fifth generation of the family enterprise, Fernet Branca remains a popular high in demand liqueur with bars as well as connoisseurs across the world.

Tasting Notes:  An amber-brown colour with a distinct yellow rim. The nose has prominent mint, juniper and rhubarb aromas and a palate of complex herbal flavours with a long mint dominated finish. Not for the faint hearted as an aperitif, but can be a miracle  ingredient  in cocktails. Having devised several of my own cocktails with Fernet, I am listing  the most popular one by far.

Cocktail Recipe
Beer ‘n’ Grin

A pint of chilled lager, 10 ml Cointreau, 5 ml lemon juice, 3 ml Fernet Branca, 3 ice cubes.
Put the ice cubes in a high ball glass and pour over the ingredients with last being the beer. Give a light stir and  serve garnished with a lemon spiral.

Valamon Balsami Munkkilikööri 

Packaging: 350 ml

ABV 30%

The name looks overwhelming but look closer and its quite simple as Munkki means Monk and Likööri is Liqueur in Finnish. This and the next liqueur are the ones you may not commonly come across outside the Nordic region (Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Sweden and Norway) as they are quite unique in terms of ingredients and the climatic conditions under which produced.

Valamon Balsami Munkkilikööri is a spicy herbal liqueur from the Valamo monastery of the Finnish Orthodox Church. The monastery is a popular destination for visitors to Finland, getting close to 1,60,000 visitors a year. In the traditions of the church, the monastery produces various wines and liqueurs of distinct characters.

Tasting Notes: A muddled brown colour with an amber rim. A complex nose of  mixed spices and herbs and a pleasing sweetness on the palate accompanied by a lingering finish.

Cocktail Recipe: Did not try a cocktail with this one, since it worked ideally as a digestif. But I guess it would also go well with tonic water .

Lapponia Lakka 

Packaging: 500 ml 
ABV 21%

Another one from  Finland, this is a liqueur from Cloudberries, a fruit typical to the Arctic region that are considered a rich source of vitamins and minerals.


Tasting Notes: A sweet spicy nose and a palate of honey, quince and white peppers. Sweetest of the lot but with well balanced acidity that in my opinion qualifies it as a good digestif.


Cocktail Recipe: 60 ml Gin, 30 ml Lapponia Lakka, 5 ml lemon juice, tonic water. Pour over lots of ice.


Cloudberries











So which one did I select for keeps? Fernet-Branca for two reasons. First- I was out of supply of this staple ingredient of my home bar and second- I did not want to take undue advantage of Neelu’s generosity by appropriating the exotic liqueurs he so painstakingly ferried across the oceans. After all ethical conduct is a known virtue of tipplers- isn’t it?


Friday, June 13, 2014

A Portuguese Wine "Goal" in New Delhi

It was around the same time last year when Delhi had a taste of Portuguese wines at the country’s
Mauro Neves
ambassador H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira’s residence. The tasting  generated lots of interest and this enthusiastic response was conveyed by us to His Excellency, the Ambassador who promised that more such show casings were in the offing. Sure enough, the Indian capital yet again experienced some  delightful wines from Portugal at a tasting hosted at the British High Commission on 23 May 2014 by PortIndia, a Portuguese wine producers consortium that has an office at New Delhi with its enthusiastic helmsman Mauro Neves, managing the affairs.

  For the uninitiated, Portugal has a rich wine heritage dating back to the 12th century.  Not many might  be aware that Douro region in the country is the first ever formally demarcated Quality Wine Specified Production Region (QWSPR) that was classified  in 1756 to protect the authenticity of Port- the best known fortified wine of the world. Area wise a small country, Portugal is around 600 kms in length and 200 in width.  The major wine regions of the country are  Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alantejo.The country is bordered by Spain on the northern and eastern sides  and the Atlantic ocean on the other two. This endows it with diversity of terroir (soil, microclimate and production methods) and in turn contributes towards a broad spectrum of wine styles over short distances. Apart from the international grape varietals that are being increasingly cultivated in the nation post its membership of the European Union in 1986, Portugal has a treasure of native grape varietals that make it an absolute must on a serious wine lover’s agenda. 

Coming to the tasting, a good mix of these wines presented the varying flavours across regions and varietal blends. Mauro was completely hands on to ensure a personalised connect with wine lovers, a majority of them being expatriates.
The line-up

Wines tasted

H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira

Wine: Torre De Aguiar (Frisante)Semi-Sparkling
Region: Beira Interior
Grapes: Siria, Malvasia Fina and others
A lightly sparkling wine incorporating the native Siria grape amongst others. Refreshing and sprightly  with citrus and stone fruit flavours. Good for hot Indian summer months.

Wine: Vinha Antiga
Region: Vinho Verde
Grapes: Alvarinho
A delectable dry wine with flavours of candied fruit red apple, spice and a lingering finish. A good wine for food pairing.

Wine: Monte Serrano Reserva
Region: Beira Interior
Grapes: Siria, Fonte Cal, Arinto
A light bodied refreshing white with a restrained first nose that blossomed on swirling to a perfumed bouquet. The flavours of white fruits make it a good aperitif wine.

  
Wine: Campolargo  Sparkling White
Region: Bairrada
Grapes: Bical, Arinto and Cercial
Produced using the traditional method of secondary fermentation in bottle and rested in cellars for 12 months before release, this straw coloured wine had toasty, herbaceous aromas and a creamy palate with a medium finish that qualify it well as a food wine as well as a good aperitif.


Wine: Provam
Region: Vinho Verde
Grapes:  Alvarinho, Trajadura
A dry, medium finish wine with earthy, capsicum and gooseberry aromas and a light refreshing palate.

Wine: Entre II Santos  
Region: Bairrada
Grapes:  Sauvignon Blanc, Bical
A clear light gold wine with a nose of grapefruit and white flowers.  A light bodied palate with delicately balanced acidity making it a well crafted wine.

Wine: Cova Juliana Espumante Branco Bruto (Sparkling white)
Region: Beira Interior
Grapes:  Siria
A light straw coloured wine that poured with a exuberant mousse that subsided rather quickly. On the palate, it was lightly sparkling (at best petillant) with complex fresh fruit flavours. The aromas ranged from citrus to tropical fruits with a yeasty overtone.


Wine: Royal Oporto Extra Dry White
Region: Douro
Grapes:  Codega, Rabigato, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho
One of the stars of the evening,this wine seems to have been classified as ‘dry’ compared to sweet Port but in effect it has a much higher residual sugar content (at least in demi sec range). The lesser sweetness is on account of delayed fortification, other things remaining the same as traditional Port. The result is a pinkish-amber wine with intense aromas of figs, nuts and honey and a full bodied fruity and nutty palate with an excellent balance. An excellent aperitif wine but traditionally also served with tonic water and a slice of lemon/orange.

Wine: Evel Reserva
Region: Douro
Grapes:  Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca
Made from two native grape varietals, this was an intense ruby wine with ripe fruit notes of plums and cherries and a distinct oak feel. On the palate it was dry, medium bodied with  abundant red fruits,spice and  a lingering finish. A robust yet approachable red.

Wine: Piornos
Region: Biera Interior
Grapes:  Trincadeira, Jaen
A light ruby wine with aromas of sour cherries, red fruits and spice. Light bodied with lots of berry flavours on the palate. One of the reds you could casually  have without food too.

Wine: Moscatel White Port
Region: Douro
Grapes:  Moscatel
A luminescent reddish orange colour wine with intense dry fruits and spice aromas, matched on the palate with figs, nuts and quince flavours.  A good aperitif as well as dessert wine.

Wine: Royal Oporto 10 YO Tawny Port
Region: Douro
Grapes:  Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz
It had to be the pièce de résistance of the evening given its pedigree as a Vintage Port and it didn’t disappoint too! A deep amber colour exuding richness led to a complex nose of figs, dried raisins and liquorice and a riot of flavours à la bouche. This with a smooth velvety finish had everyone dreaming well into the night.


Regretfully, none of the above wines are available in India as yet. Mauro is actively looking for importers and given the positive response to these wines (a well received  tasting was held for a wider crossection of audience in the Canadian High Commission too) it may just be a matter of time when they arrive on the Indian shelves. In the FIFA season though, it may well be called a goal scored by Portuguese wines with the Indian consumer.








Contact Person: Mauro Neves
mauro.portindia@gmail.com