Olá India!... Say Portuguese Wines.

Trick or treat? Ask the halloween question to a winemaker and invariably the  response would be ‘Treat’ since there is no better joy than presenting one’s wines for appreciation!  But what do you call a wine treat that is yours for asking without the antics of a trick? You could not be complaining! This is the current wine scenario in India where the country’s shores are awash with exotic wines from the world over with producers making scrupulous efforts to showcase their wonderful creations!

Portugal is one such vinously rich country whose wines have started creating mammoth waves across oceans.  Not many would be aware that the first ever formally demarcated Quality Wine Specified Production Region (QWSPR) of the world goes to the credit of Portugal, when in 1756, the Douro region was classified  to protect the authenticity of Port- the best known fortified wine of the world  (sharing the honours with Sherry from Spain of course)! Portugal however, is much more than Port, and this was the emphasis at a tasting conducted at the salubriously beautiful  residence of Portuguese Ambassador to India, H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira- himself  a noted champion of the wine cause. The wines for the tasting were brought in byJoopy WWB- a Portuguese marketing concern, with their CEO José Carlos Costa (JCC) spearheading the enthusiastic showcasing. Joopy is a cute little 'Nemo-ish' kind of fish that is the mascot of the Company and was created by JCC in 2002. As per him, it symbolises the 'Fish Philosophy' of Playfulness, Dependability, Commitment and Positive Attitude. And it sure expresses these virtues with an ebullient demeanour!

Portuguese Wine Areas: Geographically speaking

Area wise a small country, Portugal is around 600 kms in length and 200 in width.  The major wine regions of the country are  Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alantejo.The country is bordered by Spain on the northern and eastern sides  and the Atlantic ocean on the other two. This endows it with diversity of terroir (soil, microclimate and production methods) and in turn contributes towards a broad spectrum of wine styles over short distances.

General Impression of wines tasted

Though the grape varieties from Portugal are unique, the range of flavours  are of course discernible in the same

The Hit Parade!

way as common wine tasting terms. There was however an element of intrigue brought about by the autochthonous varietals - in that the beauty of a distinct regional identity was well embossed. For instance, several of the reds were with medium levels of colour extraction but without compromising on structure. With a reference to French wines, I would say that it could well be called a blend of Bordeaux and Beaujolais styles. Moreover, after Portugal becoming part of the EU in 1986, winemaking techniques from different regions of Europe have seen an amalgamation of sorts and some wines from Portugal now even use the well known international varietals. So is a Super Tuscan like scenario coming up here?  Only time would tell.

Wines Tasted

Regueiro White 2011

Region: Vinho Verde

Grapes: Alvarinho, Trajadura

Pale lemon with green undertones and aromas of citrus fruits, green apples and pears. A crisp and  light bodied wine with crunchy acidity. Ideal with sea food and creamy dishes.

Desigval White 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Clean, straw coloured with aromas of peaches and red apples and some citrus notes. The palate was light bodied, fruity a little honeyed and with good acidity levels. I would recommend this wine as an aperitif or with sea food/ white meat.

Pontval White 2009

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Pale gold and having aromas of grapefruit, lemon and white flowers. Medium bodied dry and fruity on the palate with a hint of oak. A good wine with food due to its fuller body and complex character.

Fura Red 2010

Region: Douro

Grapes: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca

Tinta Roriz is another name for Tempranillo in the Douro region (Tempranillo is also known as Aragones in the Alentejo region). The wine was light ruby in colour with red fruits and perfumed aromas. The palate however was too light for my liking and I wished it could be firmer in structure.

Desigval Red 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Alicante Bouscet, Aragone, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trincadeira

This wine represents the increasing trend of international varietals being opted in traditional Portuguese wine making. The wine had a Claret like translucent bright cherry colour with plums, red cherries and farmyard aromas. On the palate it was juicy with light tannins. An easy going and savoury red that could easily go solo as a casual drink.

Pontval TN/T Red 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira

Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

TN/T does not mean the explosive Tri Nitro Toluene here! It shorthands  Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira - the two powerful native Portuguese grape varietals. The wine was deep ruby in colour and aromas of cooked fruits and red cherries. On the palate it was medium bodied with rounded tannins and lots of ripe red fruits as well as some spice. A good food wine.

Donzel Reserva Red 2005

Region: Douro

Grapes: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca

Ageing: 9 months in American and French oak

This was the wine in my top two for the evening as it had it all! Good structure, outstanding complexity and a resonance of wine attributes. With a medium ruby colour, the wine had aromas of strawberries and red cherries and a medium palate of soft tannins and layered fruitiness.  A delightful wine that could make the job of food pairing a cinch!

Pontval Reserva Red 2006

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Syrah

Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

Another of my top two, this was a wine with a powerful nose of blackberries, chocolate and earthy aromas. Dark ruby in colour with a full body and flavours of blackberries, fruit compote smoke and spice. A royal wine for pairing with robust food!

CLA Reserve Ruby Port

Region: Douro

Grapes: Not Specified (Port blends are complex to state)

A non vintage Port (I was expecting a vintage here) , this one had a bright ruby colour with a fruity, honeyed and nutty nose. The palate had abundance of red berries and nuts with a nice long finish. Went off quite well with the Indian dessert of Gulab Jamuns.

The most delightful aspect of the tasting was its upfront, honest and passionate conduct by the organisers, that facilitated the purpose of creating a sunrise moment for Portuguese wines in India- and solving for sure,  the ‘Trick’ part for wine lovers! No friend of Wine would mind getting 'tricked' into a wine tasting though!

Abridged version of this post appeared in
Spiritz magazine June 13 issue

Rendez-vous Cattier- Encore!



Wines for the Evening

Pervasive luxury has to be the norm when a glitzy and glamorous Champagne House does a national level launch of its beauties. We are talking of Cattier- the famous Champagne house, that was recently in news when guests of famous Hollywood actor Leonardo di Caprio swirled and sipped  $ 3.5 million worth of its prestige cuvée Armand de Brignac at his birthday celebrations. The occasion this time however, was the India launch of Cattier held in New Delhi at Hotel ITC Maurya and came as a precursive cooler to the already soaring mercury in the Indian capital.

M. Jean-Jacques Cattier introducing the wines

Cattier is a family owned Champagne house that has owned vineyards in the exclusive Montagne de Reims area of Champagne since 1763. 1918 onwards, the house started producing Champagne under its own family name and currently exports to more than 60 countries worldwide (India being the latest). The wine styles range from crisp and minerally Blanc de Blancs (white wine from white grapes) to elegantly structured Rosés, and firm yet sophisticated Blanc de Noirs (white wine from black grapes) . I was disappointed though, to discover from Philippe that for the time being, Armand de Brignac would elude the Indian shores due to current market dynamics as envisaged by their importers- the Sri Lanka based Kosmos Group. Hope the viability is pretty soon!

Hors d'ouvres

My association with the Champagne house started last autumn when I went visiting them at Chigny les Roses in the very heart of Champagne district between Reims and Epernay. A visit to their three floors deep cellars and a dégustation session with none other than their President Monsieur Jean-Jacques Cattier was an  experience (read my earlier blogpost on Maison Cattier) that I started cherishing already.  So when I received an email from M Philippe Bienvenu,  Commercial Director Cattier, inviting me rather modestly for ‘a flute of Champagne’ to celebrate the launch of Cattier wines in India, my anticipation started building up. Needless to mention, the celebrations went miles ahead of a simple flute!

It  was deja vu to find M Cattier and Philippe warmly welcoming guests at the venue, even as the evening began with rounds of aperitif and hors d’oeuvres indicating the gourmet fare that lay ahead. Around an hour of tête-à-tête later, the dinner doors were opened and revealed

The Bubbly starts pouring!

immaculately laid out tables ready to receive the five course fare and the guests partaking of it. The selective gathering comprised of well heeled wine lovers from different vocations and it showcased the producer’s seriousness for reaching out to the widest possible cross-section of the Indian market.

Course by course, the experience unfolded as follows (since I opted for non-vegetarian cuisine, my apologies to vegetarians for skipping the detailed description and photos of veg dishes):

First Course (Entrée)

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Type: Vintage 2005

Blend: 1/3^rd each Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs. 4500.00

Vinotheque in French means “Library of Wines”. As I discussed this aspect with Philippe, he told me the significance of the name being in the exotic and collectible nature of the wine that is akin to storing in a library, only to be pulled out for use when the situation is apt- to say so- with the compatible mood, food and of course the ambience!

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian : Summer mushroom fondue drizzled with white truffle oil and butter fried

goujons in  chive oil.

Non Vegetarian: Olive oil poached Scampi masked in raw Mango confit, paired with Sevruga caviar, port poached figs.

Tasting Notes: Clear pale gold colour with shimmering reflections. Aromas of golden apple, lemon and brioche. Refreshing acidity and layered complexity on the palate. Worked well with the freshness of Scampi, the tanginess of Mango confit and the salty palate coating texture of the Sevruga caviar.

Second Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: White corn agnolotti tossed in curry emulsion with beetroot essence.

Non Vegetarian: Chilean Sea bass napped in fennel confit, served with a side of fennel dill crescents and mustard butter.

Tasting Notes: As above. The wine complemented the freshness of Sea bass and balanced the aromatic complexity of the dish. And yes, the creamy texture of the dish found a great companion in the refreshing acidity of the wine.

Palate Cleanser

Green Apple Armagnac Sorbet- Served in an alloy spoon atop crushed ice in a cocktail glass.
Worked well to demagnetise the palate.

Third Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Blanc de Noirs

Type: Non Vintage

Blend: 70 % Pinot Noir, 30 % Pinot Meunier

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: NA (currently not being imported in India)

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: Provencal aubergine rollatini on a bed of stewed baby tomatoes risotto and side of cumin spinach gnuddi.

Non Vegetarian: Slow braised lamb shanks, served with red wine Cipollini onions and rosemary thyme infused oil.

Officially, this third course was served with the Rose 1er Cru, but for me, Cattier Blancs de Noirs stole the show- and for good reason! First, I had already tasted this wine last autumn at Maison Cattier with none other than M Cattier himself and come to know of its virtues. Second, the robust dish with which it was served on this occasion had a perfect companion in this gladiatorial wine!  Incidentally, at hors d’ouvres   Philippe had indicated a ‘surprise’   inclusion in the degustation menu- and this happened to be it, being the unannounced entry that M Cattier ferried personally from France. This does not mean that the Rose was any less, but with Blancs de Noirs around, it gracefully bowed out to shine fully in the ensuing dessert course!

Tasting Notes: A pink gold colour expressing the strength harnessed within. A complex bouquet of black currants, plums, nuts and a distinct feel of spice. On the palate it was firm with lots of red fruits, jam and a hint of white pepper. The finish was smooth and lingering. The steely structure of the wine stood up perfectly to the firm and bouncy textured lamb. The medium sweetness of Cippolini onions was a delight with the spicy traits of the wine, and so were the aromatics of the dish that worked well with its layered complexity. It would not be an exaggeration to state the likeness of the pairing  to “brick and mortar” !

Fourth Course (Dessert)

Wine: Cattier Rosé Glamour 

Type: Non Vintage

Blend: 30 % Pinot Noir, 60 % Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs 5600.00

Accompanied Food 

Caramelised Butter petit pots with almond tuille, side of coddled summer fruits and vanilla pod freeze.

Tasting Notes: A clear, beautiful salmon pink colour with aromas of strawberries, black currant and toast. A fresh and lively palate of abundant red fruits accompanied by a smooth, lingering finish. A residual sugar content of 25 gms per litre classifies it in the Sec (Dry) category thereby  giving the richness for pairing with a fresh dessert like the one above. Worked quite well with the creamy, mildly sweet, nutty and fresh nature of the dessert.

The dinner concluded with an aromatic

espresso accompanied by hand made chocolates and the celebrated artiste  Peter Mehta rendering Big Mountain’s sonorous- “Ooh Baby baby it’s a wild world“ with lilting piano notes.  “A' Bientôt- Au Revoir”- bade Philippe before I made a promise to Monsieur Cattier for a rendez-vous encore… maybe in France.. maybe in India!

When it Rained Wines from Spain

And literally so! With around 100 wines from 19 Spanish winemakers showcased in the already sizzling Indian capital, it was a rainfall of sorts that made wine professionals and connoisseurs feel the urge to tap-dance between wine bottles and get drenched in the vinous mélange!

The event called "Spanish Wine Showcase and Tasting" was  organised at the behest of the Ambassador of Spain in India  H.E. Gustavo Manuel de Aristegui- an ardent wine lover himself,  and helmed by Madame Isabel Mijares, the internationally renowned oenologist from Spain. The agenda for the day was a Press Conference followed by a grand tasting of Spanish wines.

 H.E.  Gustavo Manuel de Aristegui  (First from left)

As I entered the Spanish Ambassador’s residence at Firoze Shah road in New Delhi, a vigilant person checked my name in the list of invitees and guided me to the conference area, which had the typical charm of a Lutyen’s Delhi bungalow  accentuated by plush seating, antique carpets and  wall pieces  exuding  a definite Spanish character.

Winemakers with Madame Isabel Mijares  (First lady from Right)

The press conference started with the Ambassador giving a brief background on Spanish wines and how these were poised to become more active on the Indian wine scene. This was followed by  each winery being introduced passionately by the respective winemakers, with flutes of Cava doing the rounds. A quick Q&A session later, we were ready for the tasting organised at the lush lawns of the bungalow.

Before I describe the tasting, a quick snapshot on Spanish wines would be in order :

Wine Areas

Spain is the third largest country in Europe with the largest area of vineyards in the world, the third largest wine production by volume, and highest wine exports globally.

There are 17 autonomous  wine regions in Spain with around  half of them situated in Castilla-La-Mancha (48.7% of planted vines), followed by Extremadura, Valencia, Castilla y León, Catalonia, Rioja, Aragon, Murcia and Andalucía. The most well known classified wine regions of the country are Rioja, Tarragona, Cariñena, Penedés, Ribera del Duero, Valdepeñas, La Mancha and Rueda- which is also the  first authorized and most known region.

Grape Varieties

The most common grape varietals in Spain are Airén (23.5%), Tempranillo (20.9%),Bobal (7.5%), Red Garnacha, Monastrell, Pardina, Macabeo and Palomino, in descending order of cultivation. Of these varieties, Tempranillo, Bobal, Red Garnacha and Monastrell are red, while the others are white.

With Laura González of  Bodegas Viyuela

With close to 100 wines out of which I could manage to sample only a third, it would be a litany of tasting notes, if all were attempted. Hence I am listing out only five wines representing distinct regions and styles. There were many other good wines that I regret  not to include here, but in all fairness, I have linked  the respective websites with winery names in the table at the end of this post so that you could visit them according to your interest in the region/ grape varietal. As for Sherry, I will do a separate blog post subsequently to do it full justice.

Wine: Cava Rosat Brut Reserva

Producer: Agustí Torelló Mata

Grape Variety: Trepat

Alcohol Content: 11.5%

Cava wines are produced in the same method as Champagne i.e. by undergoing second fermentation in the bottle itself- that lends it more complexity and sustainable effervescence. I tasted for the first time, a sparkling wine made from Trepat (which is the indigenous grape varietal of  North East Spain) and liked the experience. The wine was an attractive cherry pink in colour and poured with an abundant mousse. It had intense aromas of strawberries, vanilla and a little mint. The palate was creamy with refreshing acidity and flavours of red berries and toasted bread. I would like to buy this wine when available and after the conversation with the winemaker, I could calculate the retail price as under Rs 4000/- if it arrives on Indian retail shelves- which is quite reasonable for a sparkling wine of this quality .

Wine: Matarromera Reserva 

Year: 2006

Producer: Matarromera

Grape Variety: Tempranillo

Alcohol Content: 14 %

This winery already has its wines retailing in India with their importer being Advanced Life Sciences (Private Limited) based at Delhi. The wine is from the Ribera del Duero region, which is known for its powerful reds. Dark ruby in colour, the wine exuded aromas of red cherries, plums, liquorice and sweet spices. Despite 14 % alcohol in the wine (which is a higher side) the wine did not smell too alcoholic and that was a welcome trait. On the palate the wine gave an impression of red fruits, spice and medium tannins. The finish was smooth and lingering.

Wine: Flor de Gewürztraminer

Year: 2012

Producer: Laus

Grape Variety: Gewürztraminer

Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

This is a wine that would invariably be popular amongst wine consumers in tropical countries like India. There were many wine lovers at the event who agreed with me on this account- and the reason for this upbeat feeling? The wine has it all for being a blockbuster in this part of the world- an off dry feel, refreshing palate, tropical flavours of lychees and mangoes, aromas of wild roses and tropical fruits. The wine comes from Somontano region in North East Spain.

Wine: Chardonnay 234

Year: 2011

Producer: Enate

Grape Variety: Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 14.5 %

The suffix ‘234’ in the name of the wine signifies a prized plot number in the Enate valley in Somontano, from where 100% grapes of this wine are sourced. A cool refreshing Chardonnay with an intense bouquet of apples, peaches and fennel. On the palate, it had medium to full body, complex flavours with rich mouth filling fruit and a long finish. A thirst quencher wine for sure!

Wine: AN/2

Year: 2010

Producer: Anima Negra

Grape Varieties: Callet, Manto Negro and Fogoneu

Alcohol Content: 13.5 %

It was but obvious that I had to try this wine as it is from the Mallorca island off the coast of Spain towards the east in the Mediterranean sea, with typical grape varietals of the region. The wine is a blend of three native grapes  from the island and was an entirely new experience for me. The wine was translucent ruby in colour with a  bouquet of wild berries, tar and coffee . The palate was medium-bodied with round tannins and plenty of red fruits accompanied with a lingering finish. I would love to have this wine with a barbecue spread!

Most of the winemakers at the tasing were positive about putting their wines on the Indian retail shelves very soon. In fact some are already here and are working on expanding their range further. With the prospects of import duties on wines in India falling to one third levels looking more probable considering the latest developments between India and European Union,I suppose a wine bonanza should soon unleash at the Indian shores- and there are countless wine fans to lap it up all!

Wineries Represented at the tasting

Ser No	Bodega (Winery)	DO (Quality Wine Area)	Grapes	Wines
1	Agustí Torelló	Penedes  Cava	Macabeo, Xarel-Lo, Perellada ,Trepat	Sparkling, White
2	Anima Negra	Mallorca Montsant	Callet, Mantonegro, Fogoneu,Prensal, Garnacha, Cariñena	White, Red
3	Bouza do Rei	Rias Baixas	Albarino	White
4	Carabal	Ribera Del Guadiana	Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano, Tempranillo, Syrah	Red
5	Elias Mora	Toro	Tinta De Toro	Red
6	Enate	Somontano	Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot	White, Red, Rose
7	Estévez	Jerez-Sherry  Rioja  Cava Rueda	Palomino, Pedro Ximinez, Vardejo, Macabeo, Xarel.Lo. Parellada,Tempranillo, Garnacha	Sparkling, White, Red, Fortified
8	Felix Solís Avantis	Rioja Ribera Del Duero Valdepeñas	Tempranillo	Red
9	Ferrer	Binissalem	Mantonegro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo Callet,Moll,Chardonnay Moscatel	Red, White, Sweet
10	Freixenet	Cava	Pinot Noir, Macabeo, Xarel.Lo, Parellada	Sparkling
11	Laus	Somontano	Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo	Red, White, Rose
12	Matarromera	Ribera Del Duero Cigales  Rueda	Tempranillo, Verdejo	Red, White
13	Melgarajo	Vinos De La Tierra De Leon	Prieto Picudo	Red, Rose
14	Muga	Rioja Cava	Viura, Malvasia Garnacha, Tempranillo Mazuelo	Red, White, Rose, Sparkling
15	Pesquera	Ribera del Duero La Mancha Castilla Y Leon	Tempranillo	Red
16	Solar de Samaniego	Rioja	Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon	Red
17	Torres	Cataluña Penedes,Rioja, Brandy	Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Moscatel De Alexandria, Sauvignon Blanc Macabeo, Parellada Xarel.Lo	Red, White
18	Valdeviñas	Ribera del Duero	Tempranillo	Red
19	Viyuela	Ribera del Duero	Tempranillo	Red