A Portuguese Wine "Goal" in New Delhi

It was around the same time last year when Delhi had a taste of Portuguese wines at the country’s

Mauro Neves

ambassador H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira’s residence. The tasting  generated lots of interest and this enthusiastic response was conveyed by us to His Excellency, the Ambassador who promised that more such show casings were in the offing. Sure enough, the Indian capital yet again experienced some  delightful wines from Portugal at a tasting hosted at the British High Commission on 23 May 2014 by PortIndia, a Portuguese wine producers consortium that has an office at New Delhi with its enthusiastic helmsman Mauro Neves, managing the affairs.

  For the uninitiated, Portugal has a rich wine heritage dating back to the 12^th century.  Not many might  be aware that Douro region in the country is the first ever formally demarcated Quality Wine Specified Production Region (QWSPR) that was classified  in 1756 to protect the authenticity of Port- the best known fortified wine of the world. Area wise a small country, Portugal is around 600 kms in length and 200 in width.  The major wine regions of the country are  Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alantejo.The country is bordered by Spain on the northern and eastern sides  and the Atlantic ocean on the other two. This endows it with diversity of terroir (soil, microclimate and production methods) and in turn contributes towards a broad spectrum of wine styles over short distances. Apart from the international grape varietals that are being increasingly cultivated in the nation post its membership of the European Union in 1986, Portugal has a treasure of native grape varietals that make it an absolute must on a serious wine lover’s agenda. 

Coming to the tasting, a good mix of these wines presented the varying flavours across regions and varietal blends. Mauro was completely hands on to ensure a personalised connect with wine lovers, a majority of them being expatriates.

The line-up

Wines tasted

H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira

Wine: Torre De Aguiar (Frisante)Semi-Sparkling

Region: Beira Interior

Grapes: Siria, Malvasia Fina and others

A lightly sparkling wine incorporating the native Siria grape amongst others. Refreshing and sprightly  with citrus and stone fruit flavours. Good for hot Indian summer months.

Wine: Vinha Antiga

Region: Vinho Verde

Grapes: Alvarinho

A delectable dry wine with flavours of candied fruit red apple, spice and a lingering finish. A good wine for food pairing.

Wine: Monte Serrano Reserva

Region: Beira Interior

Grapes: Siria, Fonte Cal, Arinto

A light bodied refreshing white with a restrained first nose that blossomed on swirling to a perfumed bouquet. The flavours of white fruits make it a good aperitif wine.

  

Wine: Campolargo  Sparkling White

Region: Bairrada

Grapes: Bical, Arinto and Cercial

Produced using the traditional method of secondary fermentation in bottle and rested in cellars for 12 months before release, this straw coloured wine had toasty, herbaceous aromas and a creamy palate with a medium finish that qualify it well as a food wine as well as a good aperitif.

Wine: Provam

Region: Vinho Verde

Grapes:  Alvarinho, Trajadura

A dry, medium finish wine with earthy, capsicum and gooseberry aromas and a light refreshing palate.

Wine: Entre II Santos  

Region: Bairrada

Grapes:  Sauvignon Blanc, Bical

A clear light gold wine with a nose of grapefruit and white flowers.  A light bodied palate with delicately balanced acidity making it a well crafted wine.

Wine: Cova Juliana Espumante Branco Bruto (Sparkling white)

Region: Beira Interior

Grapes:  Siria

A light straw coloured wine that poured with a exuberant mousse that subsided rather quickly. On the palate, it was lightly sparkling (at best petillant) with complex fresh fruit flavours. The aromas ranged from citrus to tropical fruits with a yeasty overtone.

Wine: Royal Oporto Extra Dry White

Region: Douro

Grapes:  Codega, Rabigato, Malvasia Fina and Viosinho

One of the stars of the evening,this wine seems to have been classified as ‘dry’ compared to sweet Port but in effect it has a much higher residual sugar content (at least in demi sec range). The lesser sweetness is on account of delayed fortification, other things remaining the same as traditional Port. The result is a pinkish-amber wine with intense aromas of figs, nuts and honey and a full bodied fruity and nutty palate with an excellent balance. An excellent aperitif wine but traditionally also served with tonic water and a slice of lemon/orange.

Wine: Evel Reserva

Region: Douro

Grapes:  Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca

Made from two native grape varietals, this was an intense ruby wine with ripe fruit notes of plums and cherries and a distinct oak feel. On the palate it was dry, medium bodied with  abundant red fruits,spice and  a lingering finish. A robust yet approachable red.

Wine: Piornos

Region: Biera Interior

Grapes:  Trincadeira, Jaen

A light ruby wine with aromas of sour cherries, red fruits and spice. Light bodied with lots of berry flavours on the palate. One of the reds you could casually  have without food too.

Wine: Moscatel White Port

Region: Douro

Grapes:  Moscatel

A luminescent reddish orange colour wine with intense dry fruits and spice aromas, matched on the palate with figs, nuts and quince flavours.  A good aperitif as well as dessert wine.

Wine: Royal Oporto 10 YO Tawny Port

Region: Douro

Grapes:  Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz

It had to be the pièce de résistance of the evening given its pedigree as a Vintage Port and it didn’t disappoint too! A deep amber colour exuding richness led to a complex nose of figs, dried raisins and liquorice and a riot of flavours à la bouche. This with a smooth velvety finish had everyone dreaming well into the night.

Regretfully, none of the above wines are available in India as yet. Mauro is actively looking for importers and given the positive response to these wines (a well received  tasting was held for a wider crossection of audience in the Canadian High Commission too) it may just be a matter of time when they arrive on the Indian shelves. In the FIFA season though, it may well be called a goal scored by Portuguese wines with the Indian consumer.

Contact Person: Mauro Neves
mauro.portindia@gmail.com

Olá India!... Say Portuguese Wines.

Trick or treat? Ask the halloween question to a winemaker and invariably the  response would be ‘Treat’ since there is no better joy than presenting one’s wines for appreciation!  But what do you call a wine treat that is yours for asking without the antics of a trick? You could not be complaining! This is the current wine scenario in India where the country’s shores are awash with exotic wines from the world over with producers making scrupulous efforts to showcase their wonderful creations!

Portugal is one such vinously rich country whose wines have started creating mammoth waves across oceans.  Not many would be aware that the first ever formally demarcated Quality Wine Specified Production Region (QWSPR) of the world goes to the credit of Portugal, when in 1756, the Douro region was classified  to protect the authenticity of Port- the best known fortified wine of the world  (sharing the honours with Sherry from Spain of course)! Portugal however, is much more than Port, and this was the emphasis at a tasting conducted at the salubriously beautiful  residence of Portuguese Ambassador to India, H.E. Jorge Roza de Oliveira- himself  a noted champion of the wine cause. The wines for the tasting were brought in byJoopy WWB- a Portuguese marketing concern, with their CEO José Carlos Costa (JCC) spearheading the enthusiastic showcasing. Joopy is a cute little 'Nemo-ish' kind of fish that is the mascot of the Company and was created by JCC in 2002. As per him, it symbolises the 'Fish Philosophy' of Playfulness, Dependability, Commitment and Positive Attitude. And it sure expresses these virtues with an ebullient demeanour!

Portuguese Wine Areas: Geographically speaking

Area wise a small country, Portugal is around 600 kms in length and 200 in width.  The major wine regions of the country are  Vinho Verde, Douro, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alantejo.The country is bordered by Spain on the northern and eastern sides  and the Atlantic ocean on the other two. This endows it with diversity of terroir (soil, microclimate and production methods) and in turn contributes towards a broad spectrum of wine styles over short distances.

General Impression of wines tasted

Though the grape varieties from Portugal are unique, the range of flavours  are of course discernible in the same

The Hit Parade!

way as common wine tasting terms. There was however an element of intrigue brought about by the autochthonous varietals - in that the beauty of a distinct regional identity was well embossed. For instance, several of the reds were with medium levels of colour extraction but without compromising on structure. With a reference to French wines, I would say that it could well be called a blend of Bordeaux and Beaujolais styles. Moreover, after Portugal becoming part of the EU in 1986, winemaking techniques from different regions of Europe have seen an amalgamation of sorts and some wines from Portugal now even use the well known international varietals. So is a Super Tuscan like scenario coming up here?  Only time would tell.

Wines Tasted

Regueiro White 2011

Region: Vinho Verde

Grapes: Alvarinho, Trajadura

Pale lemon with green undertones and aromas of citrus fruits, green apples and pears. A crisp and  light bodied wine with crunchy acidity. Ideal with sea food and creamy dishes.

Desigval White 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Clean, straw coloured with aromas of peaches and red apples and some citrus notes. The palate was light bodied, fruity a little honeyed and with good acidity levels. I would recommend this wine as an aperitif or with sea food/ white meat.

Pontval White 2009

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Antao Vaz,Arinto, Verdelho,Perrum

Pale gold and having aromas of grapefruit, lemon and white flowers. Medium bodied dry and fruity on the palate with a hint of oak. A good wine with food due to its fuller body and complex character.

Fura Red 2010

Region: Douro

Grapes: Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca

Tinta Roriz is another name for Tempranillo in the Douro region (Tempranillo is also known as Aragones in the Alentejo region). The wine was light ruby in colour with red fruits and perfumed aromas. The palate however was too light for my liking and I wished it could be firmer in structure.

Desigval Red 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Alicante Bouscet, Aragone, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trincadeira

This wine represents the increasing trend of international varietals being opted in traditional Portuguese wine making. The wine had a Claret like translucent bright cherry colour with plums, red cherries and farmyard aromas. On the palate it was juicy with light tannins. An easy going and savoury red that could easily go solo as a casual drink.

Pontval TN/T Red 2012

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira

Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

TN/T does not mean the explosive Tri Nitro Toluene here! It shorthands  Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira - the two powerful native Portuguese grape varietals. The wine was deep ruby in colour and aromas of cooked fruits and red cherries. On the palate it was medium bodied with rounded tannins and lots of ripe red fruits as well as some spice. A good food wine.

Donzel Reserva Red 2005

Region: Douro

Grapes: Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca

Ageing: 9 months in American and French oak

This was the wine in my top two for the evening as it had it all! Good structure, outstanding complexity and a resonance of wine attributes. With a medium ruby colour, the wine had aromas of strawberries and red cherries and a medium palate of soft tannins and layered fruitiness.  A delightful wine that could make the job of food pairing a cinch!

Pontval Reserva Red 2006

Region: Alentejo

Grapes: Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Syrah

Ageing: 6 months in American and French oak

Another of my top two, this was a wine with a powerful nose of blackberries, chocolate and earthy aromas. Dark ruby in colour with a full body and flavours of blackberries, fruit compote smoke and spice. A royal wine for pairing with robust food!

CLA Reserve Ruby Port

Region: Douro

Grapes: Not Specified (Port blends are complex to state)

A non vintage Port (I was expecting a vintage here) , this one had a bright ruby colour with a fruity, honeyed and nutty nose. The palate had abundance of red berries and nuts with a nice long finish. Went off quite well with the Indian dessert of Gulab Jamuns.

The most delightful aspect of the tasting was its upfront, honest and passionate conduct by the organisers, that facilitated the purpose of creating a sunrise moment for Portuguese wines in India- and solving for sure,  the ‘Trick’ part for wine lovers! No friend of Wine would mind getting 'tricked' into a wine tasting though!

Abridged version of this post appeared in
Spiritz magazine June 13 issue