10 Factors that made "The Fine Wine Fair" a Raging Hit

The past few weeks on Indian wine scenario were dominated by the hustle-bustle of one event- The Fine Wine Fair (TFWF). Organized by La Cave- a well appointed wine and spirits store in Delhi and Hotel Oberoi Gurgaon, the event was first of it’s kind in India with a galactic offering of hundred wines from eight countries. Subscribers could choose any 10 wines of their liking  and sample them alongside the gourmet pairings on offer.  TFWF promised to be a wine lover's delight and surely lived up to the expectations, as I discovered during my visit to the fair. Here’s looking at the ten top reasons that made the event a raging hit:

The French Bucket

#1. The Range 

That the offering was of 100 wines from 8 countries was already exciting, but it was the range of wines that upped the event’s USP. Included were several premium wines which would otherwise cost a bomb in  restaurants or even in retail for the lack of option to sample them by the glass. Here you could sample a Barolo from Marchesi di Barolo, a Sharis from Livio Felluga, Champagnes Bollinger, Louis Roederer and many others, all under one roof.

Italian wines at the Fair

#2. The Price

The rendezvous was available to subscribers in four time slots of two hours each. The timings were 12 to 2 pm,from 2.30 to 4.30 pm, 5 to 7 pm and 7.30 to 9.30 pm. The day/night slots were priced all inclusively at Rs. 1500.00 and Rs. 2000.00 per person respectively. With the same range of wines available in all slots, the deal was a steal,  considering that such a bouquet of wines in tasting measure is not available elsewhere in India.

#3. The Market Availability

All the wines on offer at the event are available in major cities in the Indian market, given  La Cave’s affiliation with the country’s most prominent wine importer, Brindco. One can easily revisit a wine that he may have liked in the Fair,simply by buying it from retail or visiting a restaurant serving it. This aspect projected the Fair as being meaningful rather than a silo-ed exercise.

The La Cave store in New Delhi

#4. The Backing

La Cave’s backward integration with Brindco not only ensured a vast repertoire of wines, it also ensured optimal quality of service due to the entire supply chain being in their control. It translated into the guests savouring the wines at their best.

#5. The Timing

Oct-Dec are the most pleasant months in India not only weather wise but also due to the festive season that starts from Navratris and extends till the New Year. TFWF was conducted on the weekend immediately after the festival of Dussehra when the festive fervor was at a high. Good attendance was a logical payoff of this timing.

These Rosé wines seem to be welcoming the Indian autumn

#6. The Preliminaries

Aided with an appealing social media  outreach, strategically embellished with details of premium wines in their historical perspective, the organizers were successful in attracting the right kind of audience to the Fair. It meant that only the audience who could appreciate the offerings, actually subscribed to the event, resulting in a high customer satisfaction.

#7. The Limited Gathering 

With the maximum number of tickets for a particular slot restricted to a hundred, the venue was never overcrowded. Apart from guest comfort, it facilitated calibrating  service requirements by the organizers. Honouring  timings for the respective slots  also ensured that the attendees did not have to wait even for a minute to avail the services ready for them in pristine glory.

The venue had ample space for ambulation

#8. The Goodwill

TFWF was not the first consumer outreach by  Madhulika Bhattacharya aka Madame LaCave. Ever since she opened the store last year, she has been conducting a string of thematic wine dinners called “Unwined by La Cave” engaging wine lovers in world class wine sessions. The goodwill generated by such proactive consumer engagements ensured that TFWF had a reasonable prospective audience even before its announcement.

Gourmet options: (L) Champagne Bollinger Brut with cheese and (R)  Banfi Brunello di Montalcino with New Zealand lamb

#9. The Masterclasses

The value added option of attending masterclasses conducted by respective producer representatives who arrived specially for TFWF, enhanced the charm of the offering. These masterclasses could be subscribed in advance by paying an additional Rs. 500.00 per person and afforded the participants a deeper look into the concerned wineries/regions.Hence the Fair also served as a fast track knowledge acquisition platform.

#10.  The Effusive Charm of Madame LaCave

Lastly but most significantly, it was Madame LaCave all the way as TFWF was entirely her brainchild. Madhulika Bhattacharya aka Madame LaCave was totally hands-on with the event, being on toes all three days, morning till evening- devoting personal attention to guests, leading a cohesive team and getting behind the counters every once in a while. It was a herculean effort in the Indian scenario and she pulled it off well.

Wine lovers in India are already thirsting for more!

How could one leave without raising a toast with Madame LaCave? Notice the Tuscan setting recreated in the background.

Sula's "Globe in a Glass" Roadshow: Connecting Carnival Style

This summer,  I was quite fortunate to be in Buttrio, a commune in Udine, a major province of Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy during the period when their regional wine fair was on. It was the perfect occasion to sample a host of wines from the Friulian region under a single roof which would otherwise not be possible for a random visitor on a tight itinerary. It was also a moment when I silently  wished to witness such wine fairs in India with a carnival like atmosphere, where you just enjoy the wines in a carefree manner, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere,  without having to worry about taking notes etc.

Surprisingly, my wish came true a bit sooner than I  had imagined. To top it, not only with wines but spirits as well!  The occasion was "Globe in a Glass Roadshow 2016" in New Delhi organized by
Sula Selections, the import arm of Sula Vineyards, India's largest winemaker. The event  showcased Sula's import offerings  supplemented by their domestic portfolio "under one roof"- in this case the big blue sky.

The spirit of the roadshow- an outdoor setting, drinks, food, music and conversations.

The Event

The Delhi fixture of Sula's roadshow was the first in the series of three- the other two to be held in Bangalore on 5th and Mumbai on 7th Oct 16.  As I publish this piece, the Bangalore version is likely to be in its full bloom. Leading wine and spirit producers from different corners of the world have joined hands with Sula for these day-long events, offering guests  the opportunity to sample Wines, Liqueurs, Cognac, Tequila, Brandy and more while meeting the people behind the brands.

For the Delhi version, the venue was  'Lodi – The Garden Restaurant' located in the serene precincts of one of the greenest spots of the Indian capital. The event truly resembled a carnival, with music and food adding to the charm of the liquid pleasures while people from different industries, diplomats, industry leaders and socialites mingled to strike conversations while they enjoyed the wide range of offerings.

Top: Emma Hammonds, Regional Director, Asia, Constellation Brands serves the Ruffino wines
Bottom (L) Pitú Cachaça  (R) Bouchard Aîné  & Fils stall

The Offerings

Almost the entire Sula Selections portfolio was showcased at the event- only exceptions being their labels which are not registered in Delhi State. Guests could sample Mud House from New Zealand, Hardys Australia, Trapiche Argentina, Cono Sur Chile, Kumala South Africa, Antica Sambuca, Remy Martin Cognac and St Remy Brandy France, Ruffino Italy, Cointreau France, Don Alejandro Tequila Mexico, Mount Gay Rum Barbados, , Volare Italy, Pitu Cachaça Brazil, Bouchard Aîné  & Fils France, and Le Grand Noir France.

A distinct feature of the event was cocktails made exclusively from Sula's spirits brands which silently conveyed the versatility of their portfolio capable of whipping up famed cocktails like Side Car, Mimosa, Mai Tai, - and their signature Cointreaupolitan (a Cosmopolitan sans vodka) entirely on their own. It also afforded them to display the main ingredients of the respective cocktails through their brand logos facilitating a strong consumer recall (image below).

(L) The main ingredients of famed cocktails depicted graphically, (R) Fresh ingredients at hand

The Genesis

Speaking on the occasion, Noi Cecilia Oldne, VP – Marketing & Global Brand Ambassador at Sula Vineyards, said “This tour was put together for our valued customers, bringing wines and spirits produced or imported by Sula, and the people behind the brands all under one roof.  Sula is today not only the leading wine producer in India but also one of the top wine and spirits importers. This was a great opportunity for Sula, suppliers and customers to engage.”

That India is a promising market for Wine has been repeatedly acknowledged by global wine entities through their continuing engagement with the country. With respect to Spirits, India is already the fifth largest consumer in the world and likely to overtake Philippines as  fourth largest by 2017 (source: IWSR report for 2012-2017). It  therefore makes sense for importers in India to develop a diverse portfolio of wines and spirits that meet the aspirations of the world's fastest growing economy.  A market outreach is essential to keep the sales volumes at a viable business levels and Sula's roadshow did just that with ingenuity- more significantly considering the restrictions applicable on advertisement and promotion of alcoholic beverages in India.

For wine and spirits lovers the carnival has just begun.

Amongst others, I also had the privilege to bond with Sula's Chief Winemaker Ajoy Shaw (R)
and Karan Vasani, Winemaker Red Wines (L)

Of Wine Service Fiascos and Dismissive Friends

Consider the following real world wine scenarios:

# 1: At a national day celebrations of a major wine producing country, guests are appalled to find

warm red wines and unmindful pouring by servers mixing wines in the glasses. In the mêlée, somebody quips that the country might as well  come up with an in situ rosé blend by mixing a red and a white in the glass itself!

# 2: Entertaining a foreign guest at an upmarket fine dining outlet in Lodi Road New Delhi, the guest and I look at each other in disbelief when the steward fills the glass three fourths with the Sancerre we had ordered- prompting me to suggest sharing the already poured measure rather than having the other glass poured.

# 3: A good friend is innocently about to put two ice cubes in a red wine to chill it the same way as he would a whisky. Only to be stopped by his buddy explaining why it would be better to put the bottle in fridge for some time,

Each of the above scenarios are different yet the subject is common- wine service, an aspect that is considered vital to wine enjoyment. None can deny that the level of wine service can make or mar a wine. Imagine an over chilled full bodied red refusing to open up until you have warmed its cockles by cupping the goblet. Or a warmer than permissible white that tastes flabbier when it should be refreshing your palate. In short, service is to wine what a rack is to a pinion!

The Importance of Service in Wine

But why is wine service so fussed about? Why don’t we micro manage service to the same degree with other drinks?

Reasons may be many but to summarise,  we can say that wine has more number of production variables than possibly any other beverage in the world. With approximately 1400 documented wine grape varietals* , the concept of terroir (a collective French term for soil type, micro climate and production methods) and  propensity to evolve even during storage, wine turns out to be a complex entity that requires a little more deliberation than other beverages.

However all these variables do not mean that ultra special skills have to be acquired to serve wine. One can equate learning to serve wine with operating a home gadget. It can be operated  straight out of the box or after taking some time to read the supplied manual to get access to its full functionality. Similarly, wine can well be enjoyed just by  opening the bottle, but it helps if you know how to serve it optimally.

Professionally Speaking

In a professional scenario though, things are not that simple. Bad wine service when speaking professionally can have far reaching implications than meets the eye.  For illustration, let us revisit the first two scenarios in the beginning of this post that fall under the professional domain:

Scenario 1 (National Day)

Being the national day of a country, a good range of wines from that country were offered to the guests amid a vast spread. Since the wine service was pathetically short, the wine savvy chose to switch over to other drinks while others just pulled along. In the aftermath, passionate wine lovers pointed out the glaring mistakes on social media kicking off a stimulating discussion- only to be snubbed by the hosts implying that a gift horse cannot be looked into the mouth! The protests died almost instantaneously lest one landed on the wrong side of the embassy’s goodwill. In this whole development an important lesson was lost- faulty wine service due to poor management and the opportunity cost to the presented brands that did not get a fair chance to be showcased in front of potential clients.

Scenario 2 (Restaurant)

The steward apologized profusely- to be joined by his manager who offered a complimentary dessert to compensate the deficiency in service. Disappointment assuaged, we declined his thoughtful offer and went on with our meal, which eventually turned out to be a good experience- the initial fiasco ignored.

Serving wine at one of my consumer events

Response is the Key

In each of the above scenarios, the host’s response was the key to salvage or worsen the situation. In the first scenario, the hosts may have felt that in the larger ambit of their national day celebrations, guests needn’t have been critical of the wine service, but they ignored the disservice they did to  the affected brands rather than promoting them- which was their onerous responsibility.   A simple acknowledgement of the lapse, may be on a humorous note, could have put the issue to rest and given the brands a second chance in the eyes of potential customers.

In the second scenario, even though the steward erred initially, the situation was salvaged with an apology and a sincere intent to address the consumer’s concern. Had it not been so, the restaurant might have lost valuable customers.

To conclude, wine service may not be quantum physics  but it does require a certain level of planning and careful execution particularly in the professional context. And above all, a positive attitude to improve things when they indeed go wrong.

As for the third scenario above, the ‘faltering’ friend teasingly went ahead with putting the ice cubes in the wine. Now that is an entirely different equation beyond the realm of wine propriety.

* Source 'Wine Grapes' Edition 2013 by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz

Revisiting Torres Wines

Most wine lovers would agree that there are some wines which we meet as if they are well known friends. 'They' are quite familiar in terms of behavior, inclinations et al. These are often wines that we have encountered more than once, sometimes in their land of provenance. Torres wines from Spain and Chile are some such wines for me.

Reminiscences of tasting Torres wines when I visited them in 2014

Though I had sampled Torres wines several times before visiting their facilities in Catalunya and La Rioja, it was only after my visit that I  became close to them in the real sense. Having  physically seen their vineyards and wineries, meeting their winemakers and sharing lunch with the top man- Miguel A Torres himself (read my interview with Miguel A Torres), I became so  familiar with their labels as to recognize them easily beyond the realm of legibility, with their respective cuvée compositions coming automatically to the mind.

Hence I was quite enthused when Prestige Wines and Spirits, Torres’ importers in India invited me recently for a dinner with Mireia Prim, the brand’s ambassador responsible for India.  Mireia arrived on a three city tour to conduct trade sessions, interact with consumers and media, as also to get a first hand feel of the Indian wine environment . The rendezvous gave me an excellent opportunity to revisit some of my favourite wines,  and to catch up on friends made during my visit of 2014.

Mireia Prim, Brand Ambassador Torres guiding the dinner

For the uninitiated, Torres S.A. is a prominent Spanish winemaker, widely acclaimed as having single-handedly  revived the fortunes of wine trade in  the Penédes  region. It was these efforts  that led to the region’s recognition as a DO (Denominación de Origen) in 1976 after the Appellation regulations came into effect. The Torres Family has since then ventured much beyond Penédes owning  more than 2,400 hectares of vineyards, most of which are located in Spain apart from the ones in Chile and California. These wines are exported  to more than 160 countries across the world-  including India.

For my meeting with Mireia, I arrived  a little early at  'Honk', the Asian cuisine restaurant at hotel Pullman-Novotel. My deliberation of donning the Torres necktie worked, as she instantly noticed the detail. Knowing further that the tie was gifted to me by none other than Miguel Torres Maczassek, fifth generation of Torres family and General Manager Torres SA during his visit to Delhi last year, she suggested that we click a photo which she could show back home. I obliged readily.

After a brief one-on-one conversation, we moved al fresco to sample the first wines of the evening- Torres De Casta Rosé, which was served around starters as the guests assembled. The engagement continued indoors with an innovatively paired menu called "Spanish Moves on Asian Tongue" curated by the hotel to showcase the compatibility of Torres wines with culinary influences from diverse regions of Asia.  Also, each course was prepared using different cooking methods - from steaming to Robata (Japanese styled grilling), Charsiu ( a Cantonese method to flavor and prepare barbequed food) and likewise. The concept afforded to showcase  the dexterity of  wines in adapting to Asian food.

Guests at the dinner. Sumit Sehgal, Director Prestige Wines and Spirits  is second from right 

Wines and their pairings (Prices ex Delhi retail)

A diverse bouquet of Torres wines

Torres De Casta Rosé 2015 (Garnacha+Cariñena+Syrah+Tempranillo)

Price: ₹ 1730.00

Paired with: Assorted Starters

A refreshing Rosé with amazing levels of complexity to go with a range of foods. I liked it particularly  with sushi and assorted skewers doing the rounds.

Torres Viña Esmeralda (Moscatel+Gewurztraminer)

Price: ₹ 1650.00

Paired with Herb and Star Anise Smoked Prawn Har Gow

Viña Esmeralda has been a popular wine in India owing to it’s distinct lychee and melon aromas recognized well in the land. Apart from tropical fruit aromas, the wine has perfumed floral highlights which develop further on the palate into an abundance of flavours.  The wine worked well with the aromatic Har Gow (traditional Cantonese dumplings).

Torres Gran Viña Sol ₹ 1500/- (Chardonnay+Parellada)

Price: ₹ 1500.00

Paired with:  Salmon Robata and Miso Garlic

Another of Torres’ value for money wines considering that some Indian whites are selling at approximately the same price despite the tax advantage! While the Chardonnay gives this wine its crispness, Parellada lends it the aromatics and body. Reason enough  to pair it with the savoury dumplings at this dinner.

Torres Altos Ibéricos Crianza 2012 (100% Tempranillo)

Price: ₹ 2500.00

Paired with: Roast Duck

Same wine different experiences: (Top) Pairings I tried at La Rioja, and (Bottom-R) Pairing at Pullman New Delhi

The last time I enjoyed Altos Ibéricos, was with Vine-Grilled Lamb Chops and Patatas Riojana  in a Spanish countryside grill restaurant with none else than the winemaker for company This time too, the wine was a delight with it’s pairing  of Roast Duck, which had a nice texture to complement the wine's restrained power.

Mas La Plana 2009 (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Price: ₹ 6500.00

Paired with Pork/Chicken/Eggplant Charsiu

Chicken/ Wild Mushroom Lo Mai Gai

Mas La Plana is not only Torres’ Prestige Cuvée, it denotes an outstanding adaptation of an international varietal to local terroir. The wine is a gourmand’s delight, having the depth to accommodate several flavours/textures- maybe  reason why the hotel offered it with two pairings. This full bodied wine with rounded tannins and notes of dark berries, chocolate, vanilla and mint, didn’t disappoint either.

Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro (100% Moscatel)

Price: ₹ 1850.00

Paired with Berry Parfait, Lemon Curd, Raspberry Coulis, Strawberry Sorbet

Floralis Moscatel Oro is my go-to dessert wine for majority of wine dinners that I host in India. Reason? It has all the ingredients desirable of a dessert wine- balance, spiciness and long finish, made more attractive with a favourable price as compared to equivalent dessert wines. The sweet and sour components of the dessert integrated seamlessly with the complex flavor profile of the wine.

Sumit Sehgal, CEO Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd informed me that they periodically conduct such sessions to highlight their wines' compatibility with different types of cuisine. The arrival of Brand Ambassadors to connect with trade and consumers, on one hand emphasizes the brand's seriousness towards the visited markets and on the other, gives them feedback to carry out course correction if any.

Going by the response at the dinner, the Torres Wine Armada appears well on course!

A selfie to carry the goodwill home

India Witnesses It's First Ever 'Exclusively Wine' Awards

Awards mean recognition. We know that humans crave recognition. Abraham Maslow’s theory defines such an orientation  as ‘esteem need’ wherein a person, who has already achieved physical, security and social needs, aspires to be acknowledged for his/her efforts. No wonder we have awards associated with virtually every sphere of life. At the highest level they come as  Nobel prizes, Grammys, Emmys, Oscars and the list goes on endlesssly into every possible area of expertise.

It was hence logical that the Indian wine industry- a comparatively nascent one-  would come up with its own set of awards sooner than later. It finally happened this year with delWine Excellence (dWE) awards.  The awards are the  outcome of collaboration between three entities -'delWine', an e-newsletter on wine,  'Indian Wine Academy', an organisation that promotes wine (both founded by noted wine personality Subhash Arora) and 'Indian Restaurant Spy', a food and wine blog by renowned journalist Sourish Bhattacharyya. Supported by India’s first and only Master of Wine Sonal Holland who is also co-chair on the jury and Rifaquat Ali Khan Mirza, an eminent hospitality professional, dWE awards have provided the initial spark to accredit wine professionals across the country for their efforts with requisite deliberation. The awards are envisioned to be held in two stages, one each  in Delhi and Mumbai- India’s major wine hubs. 

 delWine Excellence awards core team:
(L-R) Subhash Arora, Sonal Holland MW and Sourish Bhattacharya
(Pic: delWine)

According to Subhash Arora, the primary consideration for holding these awards at two places is to do full justice to hotels and restaurants engaged in wine service in both these cities. "To make the awards more interesting, we have incorporated different award categories on the national level as well" Arora adds.

The Inaugural Event

The inaugural Delhi-National Capital Region round of dWE awards was held on September 14, 2016 , at the Peacock Ballroom of Hotel Pullman New Delhi Aerocity. The awards ceremony was preceded by  a Wines of the World (WOW) showcase, where guests had the opportunity to sample more than 120 wines, Indian as well as international. The engagement also offered good networking opportunity, not otherwise feasible  at such a scale. Ensuite, the awards ceremony was conducted around a sit-down wine-paired dinner for 300 wine professionals, journalists and connoisseurs, admirably managed by Team Pullman  amid an exuberantly circulating audience.

'Wines of World ' sampling in progress

With an eminent jury in place, the objectivity associated with the awards was largely established. However there were hits and misses related to expectations- a normal phenomenon in any competitive environment. Interestingly, there was a tie for the Jury Awards for Best Sommelier of the Year (Five-Star Hotel) and the Popular Perception Award for Best Importer. Also, Editor's Choice Award for the Best Value for Money Wine List (Five Star Hotel) was not given away because the organizers felt that  Five-Star hotels ought to transfer the price benefit  of duty free imports to the consumer before being considered for such an award.

Kapil Grover, Chairman Grover Zampa Vineyards after receiving the  delWine Lifetime Achievement Award
Pic: delWine

The Winners

The final list of winners is summarized in the image given below . Please feel free to download and share. Alternately, click here  to view and  download as high resolution PDF .

The Road Ahead

delWine Excellence awards have come as a welcome development on the Indian winescape. Such initiatives are  bound to stimulate the wine market in the country towards refinement in wine quality and service levels. Speaking about immediate plans after the inaugural event, Arora said that apart from the Mumbai version of dWE awards, they also plan to host India Wine Awards, which, for the first time in the country, will be based on blind barrel tastings in each of the country's wine-producing districts by a panel of experts. These Awards are being planned for February-March 2017 and will be held in Mumbai and Bangalore in alternate years.

"With the two awards, we will honor the country's best wine professionals and cover 360 degrees of the wine experience -- from wine service, imports, retail and tourism to the quality of wines being produced in India, from consumer-driven industry awards to tastings-led expert awards," said Arora.

The wine scene in India seems all set for the next level of evolution.

La Réserve- India's Favourite Wine Relaunched in a New Avatar

"Old wine in new bottle"- is the common refrain to denote cosmetic changes to an existing product. But there’s a subtle variability in its interpretation. If the concerned product is nothing to write home about, cosmetic changes appear unnecessary and maybe a desperate means to ameliorate product consumption. But what if the product is already in the hall of fame? It leads to another proverbial description- “cherry on the icing”.

The latter interpretation was on full display as one of India’s leading wine producers Grover Zampa Vineyards (GZV) relaunched their flagship wine La Réserve innovatively, pairing it with a customized barbeque menu by hotel JW Marriott,New Delhi. Titled “La Réserve Barbeques” the Delhi launch was last in series of similar events in Mumbai and Bangalore.

An infographic from Grover Zampa Vineyards to depict the change

About La Réserve

Those familiar with Indian wines would probably agree that La Réserve Red from GZV has attained cult status on the Indian wine front ever since it  was launched in 1998 . After having developed a distinctive French  inclined ‘house style’, courtesy their  active collaboration with famed wine consultant Michel Rolland and French winemaker Mathias Pellisard, GZV have been successfully able to place this wine as their “prestige cuvée”. The wine is the result of hand-picked selection of GZVs oldest Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines vinified and matured in French oak barrels. 

Completing the ensemble offering, La Réserve White is a barrel fermented Viognier which according to GZV, is elaborated vintage after vintage with the same zeal as La Réserve Red.

Apart from the refined disposition of La Réserve wines , my personal opinion  finds their utmost USP as being in their consistent quality- which is a difficult ballgame in a non standardized wine industry like India. This prompted me to ask their CEO Sumedh Singh Mandla “ How are you able to ensure a consistent taste more so when you are producing these wines in two distinct geographical locations (Nandi hills in Karnataka and Nashik Valley in Maharashtra) with different terroir elements ?  Sumedh’s reply was quite plausible, as he highlighted that the cuvée blends are carefully managed to incorporate a minimum percentage of common inputs from their oldest vineyards. Though they do not maintain a stock of Réserve wines for blending, it is the quality of produce that is ensured through sound viticultural practices and oenological expertise at hand.

The New Avatar

The new packaging of La Réserve is not restricted to the label alone. A chunkier broad shouldered bottle similar to the Super Tuscans, is weightier and power inducing. While the older ‘white-gold-black’  label was minimalistic and appeared Victorian, the newer one is big, bold and flamboyantly sophisticated keeping pace with the current times. The embossed graphics in dark grey, wine red and gold/silver (for red/white wines respectively) are a pleasing combination complemented with  a pleasant tactile feel.  Another layer of differentiation is rendered by the capsules- gold for red, and silver for white - which makes the variants' identification easy even from a distance. The price of both these wines ex Delhi retail is  ₹ 1050.00.

The Launch event

Anticipative guests comprising of trade professionals and media witnessed unveiling of the new labels by  Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO GZV and Antony Page, GM JWM, New Delhi even as they savoured the same wines. Though the organizers had envisaged an outdoor setting, the Indian monsoon dictated otherwise, resulting in the last minute shift to the crystal ballroom at JWM. The contingent venue (and the JWM team) did well to spaciously accommodate the gathering as well as the bar/ live barbeque stations.

Sumedh Singh Mandla (L) and Antony Page (R) unveiling the new bottles

As mentioned above, JWM Delhi has evolved a special barbeque menu for the La Réserve wines. It is common knowledge that a robust red wine invariably goes well with rustic barbeque preparations, however with a white wine included, more planning is necessitated than meets the eye.  JWM handled this aspect well by incorporating white wine centric  canapés and cheeses as pass arounds, well recognizing that most guests would  prefer to sample the white wine first. However for those not meeting this assumption, the main spread too had ample options to support their preference. The respective food stations were made interesting with witty chalkboard graffiti which fired the imagination further.

Hit Pairings at the Launch

With La Réserve Red

New Zealand lamb chop.
Pork Finochiona sausage
Moroccan lamb merguez with red wine jus
Fettucini pasta with thyme infused mushroom ragout

With La Réserve White

Norwegian smoked salmon, Sevruga Caviar, Dill sour cream blinis
Prawns with spicy garlic lemon marinade
Fromage de chevre with crisps
Salad- poached chicken, French beans and prunes with honey mustard vinaigrette

The Riddle of Riedel

It was one of those rare  occasions when the 'lead artist' took a backseat in favour of the 'supporting cast'. As Alexander Zorin, Vice President Sales from Riedel, one of the most respected wine glass companies, unpacked the last of  tasting sets for the ensuing session on varietal specific glassware, anticipation ran high. We were all eager to experience the difference in perceiving wine from optimized Vs. generic glassware. For a change, it was the glass to do the talking rather than wine. The session was conducted at Akira Back- the much talked about Japanese-Korean restaurant at hotel JW Marriott Aerocity New Delhi.   I was in attendance at the invitation of my good friend Ankur Chawla, Director of Beverages at the hotel who also plays a larger role in Marriott's Beverages Committee for Asia-Pacific.

Alexander Zorin demonstrating the uniqueness of each 'varietal specific' glass 

A Wine Tool

The Riedel philosophy unabashedly announces a wine glass as a ‘tool’ that facilitates appreciating the bouquet, texture, taste and finish of a particular wine. To come to this conclusion, they cite their decades of research to arrive at optimum shapes and sizes of the respective glasses. Though Riedel have a history of producing glass dating back to 1756, it was only in the 1950’s that they started producing wine-friendly stemware.  It all began when at a casual gathering, guests were called upon to fetch their glasses from a nearby cabinet and Claus Riedel, their 9th generation helmsman discovered that the same wine tasted differently in the melee of  resulting assortment. He narrowed down on the best glass for the particular wine and  the foundation for grape varietal glassware was laid.

The Premise

Most of us probably know that human tongue has distinct sensory regions related to different taste

Pic: www.rudyard.org

profiles. Over time, the demarcation of these regions has evolved as a ‘tongue map’ (see image alongside). The theory has been challenged though, in the form of subsequent research confirming that all taste qualities are found in all areas of the tongue. But in the wine context, the tongue map theory has been largely corroborated and glassmakers like Riedel have emphatically proved its relevance.

The taste of wine is largely defined by it’s ‘initial attack’ (how it is perceived immediately on sipping) and the ‘finish’ (the lingering taste after you have gulped it down). ‘Varietal specific’ glassware looks at fine tuning the drinking experience by channeling the wine onto desirable places- taking the tongue map as a guide. Level of acidity, fullness of body, vigorousness of tannins are some of the wine traits sought to be accentuated/subdued using the ‘right’ kind of glass. On the aroma front too, the shape of glass determines how focused or dissipative the bouquet of a wine can get.

Alexander informed us that in the initial years, some reputed Bordeaux producers complained to Claus Riedel of their wines not tasting appreciably well in his red wine glass.  The observation compelled him to do further research, only to realise that the glasses in question were designed with Piemontese wines in mind. This egged him further to come up with specific glasses for Bordeaux wines, followed by several others. Today Riedel glasses have a range of approximately 450   different shapes that cater to the whims and fancies of their finicky ‘occupants’.

The Technicalities

Image courtesy: Riedel

So how does the fluid mechanics of wine get affected   in such specialized glassware? The Riedel philosophy looks at three parameters:

• Shape of the bowl
• Size of the bowl
• Rim diameter of the bowl

Apart from the above, the stem and base of the glass form an important part of its architecture, to promote stability.

These  parameters determine how much wine is contained in the bowl, how it moves within, and how it gets directed in your mouth. Sounds too technical? Imagine yourself puckering your lips to sip from a narrow mouthed glass vis-a-vis a broad mouthed one. The wine in the former case will tend to flow towards centre of the palate rather than filling it up instantly as in the latter.

The Validation

The proof of a pudding is in its eating, hence we took our places at the neatly arranged table that had five glasses each, precisely arranged on printed mats on their respective places. 4 glasses from Riedel’s Veritas (their grape varietal specific range) completed the ensemble with a water tumbler as the ‘joker’.

The tasting setup

Alexander started the experience by urging the participants to pour some water in all the glasses, to sip from each and feel how differently it flowed inside the mouth. The initial point was made and well received.

The wines followed, with each of them sampled from the respective varietal specific as well as the other glasses. The comparisons stood out starkly with each wine blossoming optimally only from its respective glass while appearing comparatively lackluster from others. 

For example, the aromatic Sauvignon Blanc (SB) was subdued in expression in the Oaked Chardonnay glass and the Chardonnay returned the favour by appearing too limp from the SB glass. Similarly the Cabernet blend demonstrated good balance from the Cabernet Sauvignon glass while it appeared too tannic from the SB glass.

The constant juggling of glasses during this exercise did feel like a musical chairs of sorts but achieved what we were there for- experiencing first hand the relevance of varietal specific glassware.

The Bottomline

Does all this mean that we junk our ‘average Joe’ red and white wine glasses and start buying new glassware? Not exactly. Even Riedel have a generic glass recommendation from their range (Vinum XL Shiraz for red wine and Ouverture Magnum/Riesling Grand Cru/Chianti Classico for white wine ). However for obvious reasons, they would  recommend people buying the varietal specific stuff. In my opinion, buying such specialized glassware would be good idea if you satisfy all of the following conditions:

• You regularly drink high pedigree wines at home.
• You have the moolah to spare (specialisation always comes at a cost).
• Storage space is not a constraint.
• You have the inclination of going that extra mile to maximize your wine experience.

The last point is most important as I realized when a multi millionaire wine connoisseur friend once told me- “I would rather spend more on wine than fussing over glasses”. But then, there was also this regular wine lover friend who couldn’t stop raving about his newly acquired Riedel's Vinum tasting set .

As for me, the Veritas tasting set gifted by Alexander will keep me occupied for days to come.

Getting Upfront with Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, President of Italy's National Wine Committee

Passion knows no barriers of language or nationality, and this was at its demonstrable best as Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, the President of Italy’s National Wine Committee, struck an instant rapport with vinos in New Delhi even as he spoke in Italian with an interpreter at hand. Dr. Martelli was speaking at “The Sweet Taste”, a workshop showcasing Italian food and wine conducted under the aegis of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.

In conversation with Dr. Giuseppe Martelli

About Dr. Giuseppe Martelli

An oenologist and biologist, Dr. Martelli, taught at the Viticulture and Oenology Institute in Conegliano (Treviso). He worked at the Italian Ministry of Agriculture’s Experimental Viticulture and Oenology Institute and at the “Tenute Sella & Mosca” farmstead in Alghero.

Since 2009, he has been the President of the National Wine Committee (under the Italian Republic’s Ministry of Agriculture), which is the major consultation and proposal body in the wine sector. He is also the Honorary President of the Union Internationale des Oenologues, a Paris-based Federation that represents the National Viticulture Technicians Associations worldwide, where he earlier served as full time president from 2003-08. In an earlier role, Dr. Martelli was the Managing Director of the Italian Oenologists Association (Assoenologi), the National Trade Organisation of Viticulture Technicians from 1978-2016.

My interaction with Dr. Martelli was facilitated by Ms. Mahima Yadav, Assistant to the Director of the Italian Trade Agency in New Delhi, who very kindly offered to be the interpreter despite her hair-splitting schedule.

Dr. Martelli’s thoughts

Me: What are the major functions of National Wine Committee (NWC) of Italy?

Dr. Giuseppe Martelli (GM): The National Wine Committee is the most important advisory body of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Italy in the wine sector. It comprises of 28 people representing the main categories of the wine sector, appointed by the Minister of Agriculture. It was established in 1964 and since then, its key objectives remain unchanged. Its purpose is to give opinion, in accordance with current legislation, on questions related to wines in general and on wines with denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin (DOC and DOCG, or DOP in the European Union) and in specific geographical location (IGP in the European Union). The views of the NWC are published in the Official Gazette of the Republic of Italy.

Me: According to an IWSR study, Italy doubled its wine exports to India in the period 2008-12 and is currently the second largest exporter to India. France remains the top exporter in terms of value despite not being among the top here exporters to India. Do you think Italy will address this?

GM: France has been investing in the presentation and communication of its wines in India for a very long time, while Italy has joined in only recently as India is a market of rising importance. Hence, it’s logical that French wines are better known in India. But, I believe that the alert and experienced Indian consumer is getting increasingly closer to the Italian producers, and in the coming years, will certainly prefer our bottles, being fascinated not only by the quality of the content, but also by the history and the culture that characterizes every production of ours.

Me: India is among the “significant markets of long term”. What initiatives are planned to promote Italian wines in India?

GM: The Italian Trade Agency (ITA) in New Delhi under their new Director, Dr. Francesco Pensabene, is proposing an initiative to promote Italian products in India with great professionalism. I believe that the exchange of opinions, insights and advice initiated by the ITA have been working well in this respect. “The Sweet Taste” initiative, for which we are here, is concrete evidence of this headway.

(Above) The wines at The Sweet Taste (Below) My quick tasting notes

Me: The last edition of Vinitaly in India was in 2010. What might be the reason for this? Can we hope to see another edition of Vinitaly in India in the near future?

GM: The Verona fair, Vinitaly, cannot be present everywhere, and has limited its conduct to three markets: USA, Russia and Hong Kong. Personally, I believe that since the consumption of wine is not that high in India, producers prefer to go directly to the importers, buyers, opinion leaders and journalists, rather than approaching the consumer directly. Therefore, I believe that the role of the Italian Trade Agency and the Embassy of Italy in India becomes even more important to promote Italian wines.

Me: The Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between India and the European Union is still under discussion. Are you hopeful of its successful conclusion?

GM: This question is complex and demands the attention of the relevant agencies and government bodies. I really hope that it will soon come to a definition where it takes into account the requirements of both India and Europe, in the interests of the wine trade. There is no denying the fact that taxes on imported wine in India are amongst the highest in the world – and this often discourages those who believe strongly in Indian markets and are willing and determined to invest.

Me: In your opinion, what are the factors that may work in favour of Italian wines in India?

GM: By increasing the knowledge of our wines, first at the level of opinion leaders and trade and then at the consumer level, a perception of “value for money” can be instilled. I know that the Indian consumer, as generations before him, is pre-disposed to aperitifs with a super high alcoholic base. I hope that the new generations appreciate Italian white wines as aperitifs, not only for their alcoholic strength but also for the delicacy and fragrance that the wines express and allow you to drink more – hence allowing a longer socialization. Having said that, I feel that Italian wines are more suitable to the high temperatures of the climate in your country, as well.

However, given the delicacy, the tastes, the strength and the variety of your Indian kitchen, I am sure that a better understanding of the potential success of classic Italian red wines – robust and appropriately aged – will happen in India. And of course, all the above is subject to the level of duties and import taxes that your country upholds!

The Sweet Taste continues..

(This interview was first published in vino india)

Know The Latest Amendments To The Austrian Wine Law

Barely a month back  as I attended the seminar 'Austrian Wines- 7 Elements of Uniqueness' conducted during the Austrian wine fair VieVinum 2016 in Vienna, I asked a question to Willi Klinger, Managing Director Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) who was chairing the seminar- "when would the much talked about new Austrian Wine Law be formalised?" Willi replied- "anytime now". Sure enough, even before I could embark on the trip back home, the new law that seeks to make Austrian wine simpler yet more precise, came into effect.

Willi Klinger chairing the seminar "Austrian Wine- 7 Elements of Uniqueness"

The action on these amendments was going on for sometime, and these reforms finally came into effect on 14 June 2016 in the form of an amendment to the Wine Law of 2009.  Among other matters, the amendments encompass modifications to the existing appellatives of wine-growing regions and vineyards.

So what is the fuss all about? To put things in perspective, let us first look at the generic Austrian wine classification in the image below (feel free to download and share):

The New Amendments

The overall essence of the new amendments is to represent various levels of Austrian wine unambiguously and with greater consumer-friendliness. The graphic below covers the salient aspects:

The Details

A Tailwind for the “Rieden”

The demarcation of single vineyard sites, which has been progressing according to the laid out plan in all wine-growing regions, has received new impetus from the amendment to the wine law. It has been determined that wines with a vineyard designation must bear the word “Ried” on the label before the name of the vineyard, i.e. when the word “Ried” appears before a geographic (topographic) designation, it will indicate that the wine has come from a legally defined single vineyard site. 

With this provision, wines from single vineyards become recognisable at a glance to the consumer, easily distinguished from branded wines or wines with spurious indications of origin. Growing consciousness about the importance of a clear system for indicating origins has also found expression in the regions Kamptal, Kremstal and Traisental, wherein the DAC wines of these regions have been arranged according to law in a benchmark three-tier system – “Regional-”, “Village-” or “Single Vineyard-” wine. In this structure, classification of the wines must observe a predetermined minimum alcohol content.

Modifications to indications of origin in Burgenland and Steiermark

In order to avoid unnecessary duplication, the Burgenland wine producing appellations Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland and Südburgenland have been eliminated. In future, all Qualitätswein from Burgenland will show the generic wine-growing region “Burgenland” on the label.

Only the regionally typical DAC wines shall henceforth be permitted to bear the designation of their specific wine-growing regions – Neusiedlersee DAC, Leithaberg DAC, Mittelburgenland DAC or Eisenberg DAC.

Parallel to this, the Grosslage (large vineyard site) “Südburgenland” is being created to replace the former Grosslagen “Pinkatal” and “Geschriebenstein”.

Pursuant to the amendment, the wine-growing region “Süd-Oststeiermark” in the hilly southeast of Austria shall be renamed “Vulkanland Steiermark” – far more expressive in the conceptual sense.

Ausbruch: exclusively from the Free City of Rust

Special attention has been paid to the Austrian Prädikat wines, particularly the Ausbruch. With the changes to the wine law coming into effect, the term “Ausbruch” is defined as a Trockenbeerenauslese – and as an exclusive, protected indication of origin for Ruster Ausbruch – thus reserved for Trockenbeerenauslesen from Rust. No other wines may henceforth bear the designation “Ausbruch”.

Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin

In a process of discussions taking place over the course of several years, the Austrian Sekt Committee – together with a committee of growers conducting their own tirage, in concert with experts of the Winegrower’s Association, the Chamber of Commerce, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and the Federal Agricultural Ministry – have developed new regulations with the goal of enhancing the position of Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin (Sekt g.U.). Building upon this, the amendment to the wine law now provides that the Minister for Agriculture and Forestry, Water and the Environment is empowered to determine and specify all details pertaining to Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin by means of an ordinance to be filed under seal at a future date.

This ministerial decree will – among other things – stipulate that Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin can be sold only when bearing the defining terms “Klassik”, “Reserve”, or “Grosse Reserve”. Hereby the sales description must be composed of the category (Österreichischer Qualitätsschaumwein or Sekt), the name of the protected designation of origin (in the cases of Klassik and Reserve, solely the name of the Austrian federal state; in the case of Grosse Reserve: federal state and municipality or part of it; in special cases also Grosslage or Ried) and the term “geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung” (Protected Designation of Origin) or “g.U.”. Furthermore, the regulations and the conditions applying to its enactment will also establish standards with regard to methods of vinification and interval of élevage on the lees, as well as alcohol content and residual sugar content for the individual tiers

Austrian wine: Full Speed Ahead

According to the AWMB, standstill is a step backwards. Hence the Austrian authorities are currently working relentlessly to fine tune the unique and distinctive profile of Austrian wine. The evolution of wine laws is considered by them as a pre-requisite towards a successful future for Austrian wine. The latest amendments promise to be a step towards that direction.

With excerpts from a Press Release by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.

5 Collages Of My Picture Perfect Wine Journey

June 2016 was super active month for Guns 2 Gewürztraminer. Before you wonder about the veracity of this claim- considering it has been more than a month since my latest post, this has been exacly the reason why! I was on a whirlwind tour to Austria and Italy, exploring the world of wine, barely finding time to awaken the mobile screen to capture the beautiful but fleeting moments. Moments that I am now well equipped to share in subsequent posts. As a start, I endeavour to give you a bird's eye view  of this wine journey through a route map and five collages coupled with summary description of what I call " a picture perfect wine journey'.

Ciao and stay tuned!

Charting the journey key points: Vienna- Udine- Florence- Siena- Montalcino- Verona- Vienna

1. VieVinum 2016

This grand Austrian wine fair happened in it's 10th edition between 4-6 June 2016 with exclusive pre-event engagements for invitees. The fair has grown rapidly over the years and it showcases a mammoth range of Austrian wines along with some international presence. Organised under the aegis of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) it aims to promote Austrian wine industry in a focussed manner. Apart from tasting a 1000++ wines, the icing on the cake for me was to converse one-on-one with Mr. Wilhelm (Willi) Klinger, Managing Director Austrian Wine Marketing Board (see bottom right photo of the collage). The interview will appear shortly in print, as well as in this space.

2. Visiting Weingut Elfenhof, Rust, Burgenland

The picturesque town of Rust in Burgenland, Austria can easily be called a storybook quartier, replete with its floral promenades, a 315 km²  lake Neusiedl and expansive vineyards peppered all across . Weingut Elfenhof is a 17th century winery of the region that produces a diverse range of quality wines. Ernst Holler, the current generation owner (seen in the collage with me) was kind enough to pick me up from Vienna and host me in his town for a day full of vineyard and winery action. The time flew just too fast...

3. Friuli- the under reported wine region of Italy 

Even the folks in Friuli were pleasantly surprised that I chose the region for an elaborate itinerary when in general, the whole world  thinks of Tuscany as their first choice of exploring the Italian wine country. But let me tell you- if you have not explored, wines like Ribolla Gialla, Friulano (earlier known as Tocai Friulano), Refosco, Tazzelanghe, Picolit, 'Orange Wines' and several others, it would be a good idea to do so at the earliest- as there is a whole wide world of enchanting wines lying out there. As for Tuscany, it was my next stop quite logically......

4.  Banfi and Piccini- the Tuscan racehorses

The names need no introduction. Banfi- for their groundbreaking research on the Sangiovese vine to produce outstanding Brunello and Super Tuscan wines and Piccini- the distinctive 'orange label' producer of Chianti wines who have innovative wines like the pan-Italian blend called 'Memoro' in their portfolio.  Oscillating between Florence, Siena and Montalcino, I was on a roll (much like the Tuscan slopes) to meet the owners, visit vineyards with winemakers and sample countless wines around choicest cuisine.

5. The sophisticated charm of Allegrini 

Be it the high vineyards of the Valpolicella DOC, one of the top Amarones from the region, or a unique Brunello from their Tuscan vineyards , the house of Allegrini evokes acknowledged respect amongst winelovers. Hence it was only natural for me to visit them, given just a day's schedule in the region. Meeting and conversing with their indefatigable owner Marilisa Allegrini in this short duration was nothing less than a stroke of luck!