Getting Upfront with Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, President of Italy's National Wine Committee

Passion knows no barriers of language or nationality, and this was at its demonstrable best as Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, the President of Italy’s National Wine Committee, struck an instant rapport with vinos in New Delhi even as he spoke in Italian with an interpreter at hand. Dr. Martelli was speaking at “The Sweet Taste”, a workshop showcasing Italian food and wine conducted under the aegis of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) at The Leela Palace, New Delhi.

In conversation with Dr. Giuseppe Martelli

About Dr. Giuseppe Martelli

An oenologist and biologist, Dr. Martelli, taught at the Viticulture and Oenology Institute in Conegliano (Treviso). He worked at the Italian Ministry of Agriculture’s Experimental Viticulture and Oenology Institute and at the “Tenute Sella & Mosca” farmstead in Alghero.

Since 2009, he has been the President of the National Wine Committee (under the Italian Republic’s Ministry of Agriculture), which is the major consultation and proposal body in the wine sector. He is also the Honorary President of the Union Internationale des Oenologues, a Paris-based Federation that represents the National Viticulture Technicians Associations worldwide, where he earlier served as full time president from 2003-08. In an earlier role, Dr. Martelli was the Managing Director of the Italian Oenologists Association (Assoenologi), the National Trade Organisation of Viticulture Technicians from 1978-2016.

My interaction with Dr. Martelli was facilitated by Ms. Mahima Yadav, Assistant to the Director of the Italian Trade Agency in New Delhi, who very kindly offered to be the interpreter despite her hair-splitting schedule.

Dr. Martelli’s thoughts

Me: What are the major functions of National Wine Committee (NWC) of Italy?

Dr. Giuseppe Martelli (GM): The National Wine Committee is the most important advisory body of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Republic of Italy in the wine sector. It comprises of 28 people representing the main categories of the wine sector, appointed by the Minister of Agriculture. It was established in 1964 and since then, its key objectives remain unchanged. Its purpose is to give opinion, in accordance with current legislation, on questions related to wines in general and on wines with denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin (DOC and DOCG, or DOP in the European Union) and in specific geographical location (IGP in the European Union). The views of the NWC are published in the Official Gazette of the Republic of Italy.

Me: According to an IWSR study, Italy doubled its wine exports to India in the period 2008-12 and is currently the second largest exporter to India. France remains the top exporter in terms of value despite not being among the top here exporters to India. Do you think Italy will address this?

GM: France has been investing in the presentation and communication of its wines in India for a very long time, while Italy has joined in only recently as India is a market of rising importance. Hence, it’s logical that French wines are better known in India. But, I believe that the alert and experienced Indian consumer is getting increasingly closer to the Italian producers, and in the coming years, will certainly prefer our bottles, being fascinated not only by the quality of the content, but also by the history and the culture that characterizes every production of ours.

Me: India is among the “significant markets of long term”. What initiatives are planned to promote Italian wines in India?

GM: The Italian Trade Agency (ITA) in New Delhi under their new Director, Dr. Francesco Pensabene, is proposing an initiative to promote Italian products in India with great professionalism. I believe that the exchange of opinions, insights and advice initiated by the ITA have been working well in this respect. “The Sweet Taste” initiative, for which we are here, is concrete evidence of this headway.

(Above) The wines at The Sweet Taste (Below) My quick tasting notes

Me: The last edition of Vinitaly in India was in 2010. What might be the reason for this? Can we hope to see another edition of Vinitaly in India in the near future?

GM: The Verona fair, Vinitaly, cannot be present everywhere, and has limited its conduct to three markets: USA, Russia and Hong Kong. Personally, I believe that since the consumption of wine is not that high in India, producers prefer to go directly to the importers, buyers, opinion leaders and journalists, rather than approaching the consumer directly. Therefore, I believe that the role of the Italian Trade Agency and the Embassy of Italy in India becomes even more important to promote Italian wines.

Me: The Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between India and the European Union is still under discussion. Are you hopeful of its successful conclusion?

GM: This question is complex and demands the attention of the relevant agencies and government bodies. I really hope that it will soon come to a definition where it takes into account the requirements of both India and Europe, in the interests of the wine trade. There is no denying the fact that taxes on imported wine in India are amongst the highest in the world – and this often discourages those who believe strongly in Indian markets and are willing and determined to invest.

Me: In your opinion, what are the factors that may work in favour of Italian wines in India?

GM: By increasing the knowledge of our wines, first at the level of opinion leaders and trade and then at the consumer level, a perception of “value for money” can be instilled. I know that the Indian consumer, as generations before him, is pre-disposed to aperitifs with a super high alcoholic base. I hope that the new generations appreciate Italian white wines as aperitifs, not only for their alcoholic strength but also for the delicacy and fragrance that the wines express and allow you to drink more – hence allowing a longer socialization. Having said that, I feel that Italian wines are more suitable to the high temperatures of the climate in your country, as well.

However, given the delicacy, the tastes, the strength and the variety of your Indian kitchen, I am sure that a better understanding of the potential success of classic Italian red wines – robust and appropriately aged – will happen in India. And of course, all the above is subject to the level of duties and import taxes that your country upholds!

The Sweet Taste continues..

(This interview was first published in vino india)

The Sweet Taste of Italy in New Delhi

The Sweet Taste – a workshop showcasing Italian food and wine with an aim to find fresh business synergies between Italy and India was conducted under the aegis of the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) on 27 Apr 16 at hotel Leela Palace, New Delhi.  The workshop, which was a day long affair saw informative talks by business leaders from both sides, coupled with food and wine workshops by experts. The audience comprised of business leaders, trade professionals and selected media.

The proceedings were opened by Francesco Pensabene, Trade Commissioner Italian Embassy in New Delhi followed by a welcome address by H.E. Lorenzo Angeloni, Ambassador of Italy to India. Different sessions interspersed with live demonstrations/workshops followed thereafter.

The overall ambit of “The Sweet Taste” being food and wine, sessions ranged from market dynamics, typical challenges and the recommended way forward to promote trade between India and Italy in these sectors collectively valued at € 33 bn of Italian exports engaging 58,000 companies.

The major food items encompassed within the workshop were  pasta, fruits and seeds, cheese, chocolate, cured meats and  olive oil. Italian wines formed the other important part, for which Dr. Giuseppe Martelli, an accomplished wine personality of Italy, also the current President of Italy’s National  Wine Committee specially arrived.  

Restricting  our focus on the wine component of the fixture, let us have a look at some statistics related to Italian wines in the following image:

The workshop on wine started with  Dr. Martelli presenting several distinct advantages that the country possessed on the front of winemaking. These are:

• The benefits of ‘hillside farming’ to produce superior quality grapes facilitated by a continuous mountainous terrain running from north to south of the country. Italy is probably the only country in the world to have such unique terrain advantage.
• Access of international market to even the smallest of wine producers by means of Cooperatives so that everybody has a place under the Sun.
• Most stringent wine laws of the world with customer as the central focus.
• Only  100% grape originated product qualified to be called as ‘wine’.

A very important aspect of the Italian wine quality pyramid was highlighted by Dr. Martelli where the highest DOCG classification is accorded to wines  that show commercial aggressiveness in the Italian as well as international markets- which implies that after achieving all the quality systems in place, a particular wine has to demonstrate that it is indeed appreciated by the end consumer.  

However Dr. Martelli also added that this does not mean that other wines are any lesser , as the Italian wine quality pyramid addresses different needs that are dependent on occasion, cuisine, price and similar such variables. 

A guided tasting of the following eight wines was led thereafter by Dr. Martelli, assisted by  Atul Tiwari, India’s Champion Sommelier 2014. The emphasis was to highlight wine styles from different regions (wines lined up L-R in the photo below in the sequence of description):

Dr, Giuseppe Martelli introducing the wine session

Wine line up for the day (L-R) as described below

Ti Amo Prosecco DOC

Region: Veneto

A simple, light and fruity sparkling wine with no additional complexity- as described by Atul Tiwari. According to him such wines makes the job of a Sommelier simple since they are straightforward ‘easy to enjoy’ wines.

Bepin De Eto Prosecco SuperioreDOCG  Conegliano  Valdobbiadene Brut

Region: Veneto ( Sub-region Conegliano Valdobbiadene- the best classified Prosecco region)

An elegant sparkling wine with a floral bouquet and crisp palate. In the words of Dr. Martelli,given the delicate nature of this wine, it would be best with starters when thinking of  classical Indian cuisine with gravies and rich flavours.

Piccini Pinot Grigio IGT delle Venezie IGT 2014

Region: Veneto

A medium gold coloured wine with aromas of stone fruits and flowers. Refreshing  on the palate with a distinctive gooseberry finish. Sommelier Tiwari educated the gathering that white wines constitute just 15% of Veneto’s production- the remaining being red. According to him, this is again an easy going wine that can be enjoyed well during Indian summers.

Banfi Le Rime Chardonnay Pinot Grigio  Toscana IGT 2014

Region: Tuscany

Coming from one of Tuscany’s famed producer Castello  Banfi, this wine is an interesting blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. Dr Martelli highlighted that the blending with Chardonnay affords  this wine with roundness and weightiness. Sommelier Tiwari added that owing to malolactic fermentation, the wine is smooth and buttery, hence it can be an ideal candidate with creamy and curry dishes.

Planeta La Segreta  DOC Sicilia 2014

Region: Sicily

Dr Martelli brought to the attention of the gathering that apart from the wine-tasting moving from North Eastern  to Central and now to the southernmost part of Italy, this wine was the first for the day  to incorporate indigenous Italian varietal Grecanico as major part of the blend. The wine is a blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier and 10% Fiano (another native Italian varietal).

The wine had earthy aromas and a crisp palate of green apples and pears  followed by a long finish.

Piccini Chianti DOCG 2014

Region: Tuscany

 Dr Martelli described this wine as youthful, with a brilliant colour and a well balanced lingering palate. Sommelier Tiwari described Chianti wines as a versatile range- from simple and youthful to extremely complex. He also drew an interesting parallel of tannins in Chianti wines as being  similar to those found in Indian tea, hence an attractive proposition to Indian wine lovers.

Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba DOC 2013

Region: Piemonte

Undoubtedly the best Red of the day, personally speaking as well as going by the audience reaction. Dr Martelli said that quite like Sicily and Puglia, Piemonte is also a red wine predominant region. Sub region Langhe, where this wine is produced, is also a protected UNESCO heritage site.

The wine had a light red ruby colour and a complex nose of blackberries, chocolate and other emerging layers which can well qualify it as delicious on the aromas front itself! The palate met the expectations with a dense character, berry compote and spice followed by a lingering finish. 

Umani Ronchi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2014

Region: Abruzzo

Made from another indigenous grape varietal that is cultivated mostly along the Adriatic coast, this was a ‘fresh’ red wine with a rounded yet powerful character. A well balanced acidity made it one of those reds that you can enjoy without food as well.

Towards the evening, the Ambassador, H.E. Lorenzo Angeloni hosted a warm reception at his residence where wine and Italian food was savoured by the guests amid lots of Indian-Italian bonhomie. The Ambassador informed that promotions like these will continue with an aim to achieve a win-win situation between the two countries where quality Italian produce will have access to the vastly promising Indian market.

Wine lovers in India will sincerely hope this vision to come true!

H.E. Lorenzo Angeloni, Ambassador (R) with Mr. Francesco Pensabene. Trade Commissioner (L)
addressing the guests at the Italian Ambassador's residence in New Delhi