Rendez-vous Cattier- Encore!



Wines for the Evening

Pervasive luxury has to be the norm when a glitzy and glamorous Champagne House does a national level launch of its beauties. We are talking of Cattier- the famous Champagne house, that was recently in news when guests of famous Hollywood actor Leonardo di Caprio swirled and sipped  $ 3.5 million worth of its prestige cuvée Armand de Brignac at his birthday celebrations. The occasion this time however, was the India launch of Cattier held in New Delhi at Hotel ITC Maurya and came as a precursive cooler to the already soaring mercury in the Indian capital.

M. Jean-Jacques Cattier introducing the wines

Cattier is a family owned Champagne house that has owned vineyards in the exclusive Montagne de Reims area of Champagne since 1763. 1918 onwards, the house started producing Champagne under its own family name and currently exports to more than 60 countries worldwide (India being the latest). The wine styles range from crisp and minerally Blanc de Blancs (white wine from white grapes) to elegantly structured Rosés, and firm yet sophisticated Blanc de Noirs (white wine from black grapes) . I was disappointed though, to discover from Philippe that for the time being, Armand de Brignac would elude the Indian shores due to current market dynamics as envisaged by their importers- the Sri Lanka based Kosmos Group. Hope the viability is pretty soon!

Hors d'ouvres

My association with the Champagne house started last autumn when I went visiting them at Chigny les Roses in the very heart of Champagne district between Reims and Epernay. A visit to their three floors deep cellars and a dégustation session with none other than their President Monsieur Jean-Jacques Cattier was an  experience (read my earlier blogpost on Maison Cattier) that I started cherishing already.  So when I received an email from M Philippe Bienvenu,  Commercial Director Cattier, inviting me rather modestly for ‘a flute of Champagne’ to celebrate the launch of Cattier wines in India, my anticipation started building up. Needless to mention, the celebrations went miles ahead of a simple flute!

It  was deja vu to find M Cattier and Philippe warmly welcoming guests at the venue, even as the evening began with rounds of aperitif and hors d’oeuvres indicating the gourmet fare that lay ahead. Around an hour of tête-à-tête later, the dinner doors were opened and revealed

The Bubbly starts pouring!

immaculately laid out tables ready to receive the five course fare and the guests partaking of it. The selective gathering comprised of well heeled wine lovers from different vocations and it showcased the producer’s seriousness for reaching out to the widest possible cross-section of the Indian market.

Course by course, the experience unfolded as follows (since I opted for non-vegetarian cuisine, my apologies to vegetarians for skipping the detailed description and photos of veg dishes):

First Course (Entrée)

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Type: Vintage 2005

Blend: 1/3^rd each Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs. 4500.00

Vinotheque in French means “Library of Wines”. As I discussed this aspect with Philippe, he told me the significance of the name being in the exotic and collectible nature of the wine that is akin to storing in a library, only to be pulled out for use when the situation is apt- to say so- with the compatible mood, food and of course the ambience!

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian : Summer mushroom fondue drizzled with white truffle oil and butter fried

goujons in  chive oil.

Non Vegetarian: Olive oil poached Scampi masked in raw Mango confit, paired with Sevruga caviar, port poached figs.

Tasting Notes: Clear pale gold colour with shimmering reflections. Aromas of golden apple, lemon and brioche. Refreshing acidity and layered complexity on the palate. Worked well with the freshness of Scampi, the tanginess of Mango confit and the salty palate coating texture of the Sevruga caviar.

Second Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Vinotheque

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: White corn agnolotti tossed in curry emulsion with beetroot essence.

Non Vegetarian: Chilean Sea bass napped in fennel confit, served with a side of fennel dill crescents and mustard butter.

Tasting Notes: As above. The wine complemented the freshness of Sea bass and balanced the aromatic complexity of the dish. And yes, the creamy texture of the dish found a great companion in the refreshing acidity of the wine.

Palate Cleanser

Green Apple Armagnac Sorbet- Served in an alloy spoon atop crushed ice in a cocktail glass.
Worked well to demagnetise the palate.

Third Course

Wine: Cattier Brut Blanc de Noirs

Type: Non Vintage

Blend: 70 % Pinot Noir, 30 % Pinot Meunier

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: NA (currently not being imported in India)

Accompanied Food:

Vegetarian: Provencal aubergine rollatini on a bed of stewed baby tomatoes risotto and side of cumin spinach gnuddi.

Non Vegetarian: Slow braised lamb shanks, served with red wine Cipollini onions and rosemary thyme infused oil.

Officially, this third course was served with the Rose 1er Cru, but for me, Cattier Blancs de Noirs stole the show- and for good reason! First, I had already tasted this wine last autumn at Maison Cattier with none other than M Cattier himself and come to know of its virtues. Second, the robust dish with which it was served on this occasion had a perfect companion in this gladiatorial wine!  Incidentally, at hors d’ouvres   Philippe had indicated a ‘surprise’   inclusion in the degustation menu- and this happened to be it, being the unannounced entry that M Cattier ferried personally from France. This does not mean that the Rose was any less, but with Blancs de Noirs around, it gracefully bowed out to shine fully in the ensuing dessert course!

Tasting Notes: A pink gold colour expressing the strength harnessed within. A complex bouquet of black currants, plums, nuts and a distinct feel of spice. On the palate it was firm with lots of red fruits, jam and a hint of white pepper. The finish was smooth and lingering. The steely structure of the wine stood up perfectly to the firm and bouncy textured lamb. The medium sweetness of Cippolini onions was a delight with the spicy traits of the wine, and so were the aromatics of the dish that worked well with its layered complexity. It would not be an exaggeration to state the likeness of the pairing  to “brick and mortar” !

Fourth Course (Dessert)

Wine: Cattier Rosé Glamour 

Type: Non Vintage

Blend: 30 % Pinot Noir, 60 % Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

Approx Retail price in Delhi: Rs 5600.00

Accompanied Food 

Caramelised Butter petit pots with almond tuille, side of coddled summer fruits and vanilla pod freeze.

Tasting Notes: A clear, beautiful salmon pink colour with aromas of strawberries, black currant and toast. A fresh and lively palate of abundant red fruits accompanied by a smooth, lingering finish. A residual sugar content of 25 gms per litre classifies it in the Sec (Dry) category thereby  giving the richness for pairing with a fresh dessert like the one above. Worked quite well with the creamy, mildly sweet, nutty and fresh nature of the dessert.

The dinner concluded with an aromatic

espresso accompanied by hand made chocolates and the celebrated artiste  Peter Mehta rendering Big Mountain’s sonorous- “Ooh Baby baby it’s a wild world“ with lilting piano notes.  “A' Bientôt- Au Revoir”- bade Philippe before I made a promise to Monsieur Cattier for a rendez-vous encore… maybe in France.. maybe in India!

My French Wine Odyssey: Champagne Cattier

 After a hearty gourmet lunch at  Billecart-Salmon (see previous blog post), we headed towards the Champagne house Cattier, which is located in a beautiful village called Chigny les Roses between Reims & Epernay. As our vehicle took the turn on Rue Dom Perignon, one thing appeared very distinctive to our all Indian contingent - the roads were vacant as if the traffic had been diverted due to VIP movement- but unlike back in India, that was not the case. The density of population and various other factors like orderliness (a debatable issue) were the reason for the all pervading solitude.

The Mechanical Press at Cattier

M. Philippe Bienvenu  (L) & M. Jean Cattier (R)

Reaching the Cattier house, a meticulously maintained grape press of yesteryears greeted us. These presses were used for extracting the juice from grapes until the advent of more advanced pneumatic presses. At the glittering reception area replete with colourful Champagne bottles all around, we were greeted by none other than the owner M. Jean Cattier and the Director Commercial, M. Philippe Bienvenu. They suggested to us, a wine tasting followed by visit to the cellars or the other way round. Knowing well that we desperately needed some exercise after the gourmet indulgence at Billecart-Salmon a short while ago, we opted for the latter and braced ourselves for climbing some really steep steps in the  150 years old Cattier cellars that are 3 floors deep and happen to be one of the deepest in Champagne. Our young guide named Gauthier Bongras who spoke English rather well contrary to his modest admission, escorted us to the place that was designed using three different architectural styles- Renaissance, Romanesque & Gothic. The cellar expedition was  not as difficult  though- going by the sheer beauty of the place. The area where the famous prestige cuvee Armand de Brignac rests before seeing the outer world is full of razzmatazz with the colourful bottles reflecting the carefully placed lights. For a moment you feel you’re in Vegas!

Armand de Brignac Cellars

The visit to cellars concluding, we were escorted  back to the Cattier bureau for dégustation  As we sank into the plush pristine white leather sofas in the dégustation area, Gauthier placed the glasses and opened the first bottle which was a Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru. Our first sip coincided with  M. Cattier and Philippe arriving and we thought it was a good idea to move to the beautiful illuminated Bar  for more animate discussions across the bar counter The degustation progressed as follows:-

Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru

Blanc de Blancs

A lovely lemon-gold colour that can be appreciated from the clear bottle itself. Citrus and green fruits aromas with a hint of flowers.  A super refreshing palate with sensations of green apples, pears and dried fruits that make for a complex character. Overall a refreshing wine that can be an excellent aperitif but I suppose the fruits on the palate would emerge more after three to five years for optimally balancing the high levels of acidity.

Brut Vintage 2003 Premier Cru

A blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir and 25 % Chardonnay, this Vintage Champagne is another good wine as an aperitif as well as an accompaniment with poultry and sea food. A deep golden colour with a generous mousse, the aromas are of citrus and green fruits with  biscuit  and bread nuances. The palate is fruity, light and refreshing and the finish is medium with a touch of spice.

Brut Vintage 2003

Brut Blanc de Noirs

This one turned out to be my favourite wine tasted with Cattier.  Blanc de Noirs means ‘White wine from Black Grapes' and true to its name, this wine is produced from a 70:30 blend of the two black grapes of Champagne i.e. Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier. The wine has a seductive peach-pink colour and pours with a strong but restrained mousse. The nose is complex with aromas of black currants, ripe plums and a distinctive feel of spice. The palate is medium bodied and rich with an immense fruity feel. Well structured wine fit to be paired with a wide variety of meats and other robust textured food.

Brut Blanc de Noirs

Clos du Moulin Brut Premier Cru

This is the prestige cuvee of Cattier and grapes for producing this wine come from an exclusive 2.2 hectares parcel near Chigny les Roses. This cuvee is always made from 3 vintages selected for their quality and ageing capacity. The composition of the wine is  50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The wine is medium gold in colour with an amber tint. The nose is delicate yet firm with fruits and pastry shop aromas. The mouth feel is creamy and vinous with lush fruit. The wine lingers in the mouth for a long time  and hence would qualify as a good food-wine. Overall a delicate, complex and full bodied wine that would do well with seafood and rich creamy textured dishes.

Clos du Moulin

The dégustation culminated with talks of the possibility of Cattier coming to India. Presently, the annual production of the house is around 1 million bottles, of which 60 percent is exported to 70 countries. The main deterrent for exporting to India seems to be  the same old story- stiff trade barriers in India. But things look positive on that front owing to hectic parleys between the European Union and India on effecting mutual concessions.

Breaking News: Just received  a mail from Philippe that Cattier has entered into a contract with a Sri Lanka based company having Indian ownership for exporting their Champagnes to India. So there's more to cheer about the Bubbly space . Let them sparklers illuminate the scene!